Joan's Road Trip Blog

Southern California deserts Feb 9-25 '06

2006-04-19T20:13:00.000-07:00

Early February was a good time to drive down US 101 from San Jose to the greater Los Angeles area. The hills were green and lush, not the dry brown that summer heat brings on. Fields were newly plowed and planted by workers as thankful as I that the sun was just pleasingly warm. Birds were twittering at the rest stops. Not much traffic on a Thursday afternoon. All in all, good timing for a trip.

I had two main reasons to make this trip. To begin with, I got hooked on traveling last year. Second, I knew I’d be going to Wisconsin in March to be with my mother while she had surgery, and wanted to go someplace warm before heading to snow country. What better than a desert adventure in southern California? The first bookend for this trip was a visit to brother-in-law Gus, wife Chris, their son Conall and wife Theresa and daughter Chloe, in Hermosa Beach within eyesight of the Pacific Ocean (if you’re on the second story of a house on a hill and have binoculars, all of which they have). We ate at a Mexican restaurant and played Mexican Train dominoes. Chloe and Gus, he with the Ph.D., drew and colored pictures together.

The bookend at the end was a visit with my sister Marsha and her husband Terry, who live near the LA airport in a neighborhood whose streets have aviation-related names: Kittyhawk, Earhart, Bleriot etc. I looked forward to a game of Scrabble and breakfast at a nearby neighborhood café, both of which I got. The bonus was noticing the woman dining solo next to us who wore a cap with the word “writer” on the front and was journaling. We chatted a bit, and if I could remember the name of the book she was working on, I’d tell you. It’s a personal growth book about loving yourself first, and she already had an agent in New York.

Below: Marsha’s cat Charlie. The moustache is real.

I’ll start with the bad stuff first. I hit LA traffic during the Friday rush hour. I am petrified of driving in big city traffic anyway, so at first I was exceedingly tense. But I soon got over it. How much damage could occur if I was involved in a collision at 8 miles an hour? Next, on my second day camping in Anza Borrego Desert State Park, a fierce, cold windstorm came up. It was unpleasant enough that my camping companion, Karen, who lives a few hours away, hightailed it home. I chose to head north to a motel and a tire store. Sand had stuck to Catherine the Grape’s tires and dramatically accented an odd wear pattern on the rear tires. (I had meant to check them before leaving, honest.)

That’s the end of the bad stuff. Oh, except that later in Joshua Tree National Park, I had put up my shade canopy as a place-marker at a campsite and the tail end of that darn windstorm blew it down and broke some of the poles. But I want to get back to the tire story. The need for tires led me to Indio, where I met a friendly, helpful Big O tire store manager, had a really good Motel 6 experience, found a Food 4 Less with Mexican food in their deli, free computer use at the library, and a yummy date shake at Shield’s Date Farm.

I did not anticipate having a good time in Indio; it was just the closest city large enough to have a national brand tire store. But I eased into it beginning with the guy at Big O, who cautioned me about staying in any nearby motel except Motel 6. It seems the others, although cheaper, are hooker havens. Motel 6 had no non-smoking rooms left, except a handicapped-accessible room, so the manager put me in it and there were grab bars all over that bathroom. The wind subsided overnight and I did laundry before leaving. Motels with guest laundry rooms are 5-Star in my book!

Joshua Tree Nat’l Park
It took me 64 years to get to Joshua Tree National Park the first time (March 2005), and less than a year to return. And it wasn’t even peak wildflower season the second time. Yes, Joshua Tree is that much of a draw at any time – except when it’s 110 degrees in the summer. I was drawn by the varied scenery and reasonably-priced camping, i.e., $2.50 a night (that’s half-price with my Golden Geezer park pass). Three days and nights in Joshua Tree gave me the opportunity to try a few more hiking trails and test the new shoes I had just purchased with the hope that they’d be better for my plantar fasciitis problem. They were. Spira should hire me to do testimonials. The shoes have heavy coiled metal springs in the soles just under the heels and balls of the feet, but they’re enclosed, not exposed like the strange-looking Z-Coil shoes. Spiras also cost much less, between $95 and $135, compared to around $200 for the Z-Coils. By my third day in Joshua Tree I was able to hike three miles round trip to a hidden palm oasis. I ignored the sight of a father making the trip carrying his daughter on his shoulders, and the runners who passed me up. Hiking three miles with no pain afterwards was as major a triumph for me as if I had completed the Boston Marathon – and the scenery was far superior where I was.

In case you haven’t seen Joshua trees, here they are (named for the prophet Joshua who supposedly prayed with his hands held up to the sky).

If you have problems with sore feet, google Spira shoes (I found them googling spring shoes, expecting to find pastel colored pumps). If you go to Joshua Tree and are not 62 years old or older, expect to pay $15 to get in, and $5 to $8 for a shower (no senior discount) in the nearby towns of Joshua Tree or Yucca Valley, as the park has no shower facilities. Heck, there’s not even water at most of the campgrounds. In the spring, expect crowds looking for desert flowers. Recommended stops: the murals on the sides of buildings in downtown Twentynine Palms, the California Visitor Center in Yucca Valley for brochures and information about the area, and two special restaurants in Yucca Valley. Hutchins Harley Davidson Diner is a retro ‘50s diner in front of a Harley Davidson retail store with some museum-quality displays. The C & S Coffee Shop is not just retro, it’s real, with low prices and big servings to boot. My small orange juice was served in a 12-ounce plastic glass, and the pancakes touched the rim of the plate.

Real estate publications will cause Californians to drool over the low (for California) prices – in the $100s, $200s and $300s (that’s thousands). If you’re tempted, just remember the summer heat there.

Below: odd rock landscape in Joshua Tree Nat’l Park

Anza Borrego – a Better Deal
If you’re looking for a really low-cost desert experience, head for Anza Borrego Desert State Park instead. It also has varied scenery and, in fact, more palm oases. The $6 day-use fee is collected only at Borrego Palm Canyon, Tamarisk Grove and the Vern Whittaker Horse Camp, but it’s not necessary to go there. The park has 600,000 acres to wander around in, with elevations ranging from near sea level to 6,000 feet. The campgrounds with showers cost more than at Joshua Tree (no showers there, remember?), but free camping is available at 8 waterless campgrounds, or you can camp just about anywhere you can go safely off-road. Just be self-contained when it comes to trash and toilet, and of course water. Speaking of water, my favorite place to shower was Agua Caliente Regional Park, on the map as Agua Caliente Hot Springs. $5 got me all the hot springs soaking I could stand, in both an indoor chlorine-scented pool and a slightly cooler, less smelly outdoor pool. I could have camped there for $14 a night and soaked for free, but I had already staked my claim at nearby Mountain Palm Springs Campground (free) which had at least four palm oases to hike to.

Anza Borrego was a repeat visit for me, but I had always camped at Yaqui Wells before and hiked nearby. This time I tried a few other campgrounds, as well as 10-1/2 of the 25 hikes listed in the free visitors guide. Besides palm trees, I saw Native American pictographs and grinding holes,

views of valleys from above,

earthquake faults, metamorphic rocks 450 million years old, and the last standing elephant tree on the Elephant Tree Discovery Trail.

No more fierce wind, just gentle thermals overhead where red-tailed hawks enjoyed “wind-surfing.”

Bird Life at Big Morongo and the Salton Sea
Speaking of birds, I decided to check out a few wildlife refuges with binoculars in hand. These were the 10 x 50 binos that worked so well in Costa Rica. I visited the Big Morongo Canyon Preserve about 20 miles north of Palm Springs, and the Sonny Bono Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge. I found Big Morongo Preserve absolutely charming, and would return again on a warmer (but not too hot) day, with the hopes of getting in on a guided walk. I picked up a bird checklist, but most of the birds must have been hiding. However, other hikers recommended the canyon trail, where I saw more flowers than anywhere else on this trip. (Remember, it was February.)

The website www.desertusa.com describes the history of the Salton Sea so well, I’ll just copy it for your edification* instead of trying to paraphrase:

“The Salton Sea was formed between 1905 and 1907 when the Colorado River burst through poorly built irrigation controls south of Yuma, Arizona. Almost the entire flow of the river filled the Salton Basin for more than a year, inundating communities, farms and the main line of the Southern Pacific Railroad.

Continued filling of the Salton Sink was finally stopped in 1907, when a line of protective levees was built by boxcars dumping boulders into the breach from Southern Pacific tracks. By then, this inland lake was about 40 miles long and 13 miles wide, covering an area of about 400 square miles.”

* I checked “edification” and it means “uplifting enlightenment,” which I never found at the Salton Sea. I gave it a try, really I did. In fact, I drove all around the Salton Sea, but never did figure out what its attraction is. A few “cities” on the west side look like ghost towns, although it’s obvious people live in some of the houses and mobile homes. Some folks have built shade structures over their entire mobile home. State-operated campgrounds on the east side have showers and are reasonably priced, but I couldn’t get away from the rotten odor of the sea. It has no outlet, and acts as an agricultural sump, or drainage ditch for the runoff of nearby agricultural land. To be fair, the wildlife refuge on the south end seemed to be odor-free and was a tranquil, uncrowded area to see many different birds, mostly waterfowl. This attempt at being a bird-watcher inspired me to write a short essay, which seems a fitting end to this newsletter.

The Accidental Birder

I think I’m becoming a birder. It snuck up on me unexpectedly when I took a Study Abroad trip to Costa Rica recently. The birds there are amazing – mostly big, colorful, and cooperative. Even the little hummingbirds hold still a lot longer than their U.S. cousins. Of course, our tour guides found and identified the birds for us, so all we had to do was watch. Being able to get birds in focus in my binoculars and knowing what they were was thrilling, for I had tried birdwatching before and failed.
A year ago, I retired and started visiting national parks and other areas attractive to numerous birds. I thought I came prepared to birdwatch with some cute little discount store binoculars and The Sibley Guide to Birds. But those darn little birds wouldn’t sit still long enough for me to get them in focus in the binos (that’s birder slang), much less find out what they were even with Sibley’s help. I finally gave up and took to just sitting and enjoying their early morning chirps while I drank my tea and watched the day begin. That big rising sun is a lot easier to see and more reliable than hyperactive bunches of feathers.
My Costa Rica experience gave me some hope, though, and a better idea about how to watch birds. A night-sky-gazing friend who owns both binoculars and telescopes recommended 10 x 50 binoculars with long eye relief. The latter feature allows those of us with eyeglasses to keep them on while using binos. I don’t know what 10 x 50 means, but they sure magnify things well. I was also encouraged when I recognized some of the birds in Costa Rica as species I’d seen in California. The egrets and herons looked familiar, even though I couldn’t remember which was which, and a hummingbird always looks like a hummingbird no matter where it hums.
Empowered by my brief success, when I returned to the states I dug out the bird book and took it, those super 10 x 50 binoculars, and a folding chair on a trip to some Southern California deserts. The chair is not because I’m lazy or decrepit. The chair is because the best way to get close to birds is to sit still and attempt to blend in with the scenery, and let birds come to you. Trust me, it’s futile to try sneaking up on them.
For a few days in Anza Borrego Desert State Park and Joshua Tree National Park, I was reasonably successful at identifying a few birds. Maybe it was because there were only a few kinds, and a lot of each. Repetition helps. So did displays at the Joshua Tree Visitors Center where I learned that the fat little birds that congregate under bushes are cactus wrens, and the shiny black birds with punk hairdos – Mohawk-like tufts on the tops of their heads – are phainopepla. Ravens and roadrunners I already knew, as well as the mallards, both male and female, that were visiting a reservoir by a dam in the park.
One afternoon a beautiful iridescent green hummingbird with a bright red throat stayed in sight long enough for me to get a good look and I thought, “Ah ha! A ruby-throated hummingbird!” But when I looked it up, I learned that ruby-throated hummingbirds are easterners, and I never did find a photo of anything similar to what I saw. It sure was pretty, though.
These brief but successful encounters spurred me on to try a real wildlife refuge, specifically, the Sonny Bono Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge. I did not make that up, but someone did, and it passed through Congress. People flock there hoping to see the fabled blue-footed booby. (Not making that up either.) The brochure promised elevated viewing stations to watch migratory waterfowl. I polished up the binoculars and headed further south.
Boy, did I see birds – hundreds, maybe even thousands of them. I saw three or four kinds of white birds, some black birds with a little white on their stubby tails, black and white birds with long legs, a bunch of little gray birds, one big gray bird, and some that flew so fast I wasn’t sure what color they were. I overheard some real birdwatchers saying “There’s two coots in with those gulls,” so I know I saw coots and gulls, too. I’m also pretty sure I saw a rare new species. At least I couldn’t find any pictures that looked like the reddish brown duck-like thing I saw.
As you have probably noticed, I’m not too stressed if I can’t identify something. At my age, I really don’t care if I don’t know what I’m seeing. Birds are interesting even without knowing their English or Latin names. I’m satisfied with learning slowly, picking up information from little illustrated brochures and visitor center displays and from other people with hundreds of birds on their life lists. I’m perfectly content to just sit in my chair, listen to the twitters and caws, and watch them peck or sip or bob in the water like teapots.
On the last day of my desert adventure, I saw ten big hawks circling gracefully over a palm oasis. They seemed to glide effortlessly in the gentle breeze. Watching them from my perch on a boulder, I thought about what I’d learned on my bird-watching ventures, and realized I accidentally learned awareness and patience, and how peaceful it can be sharing quality time with my new feathered friends.

Cactus wren in Joshua Tree National Park

Unidentified bird in tree at Anza Borrego Desert State Park

Unknown black and white birds at Sonny Bono Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge

Costa Rica, Jan. 2-16, 2006

2006-03-09T14:37:00.000-08:00

Introducing ... Costa Rica with photographs, OR Joanmom's first shot at being a photo-journalist with a new digital camera!

Before I retired from a staff position at Cabrillo College in late 2004, I got wind of a study-abroad biology course being planned to Costa Rica. I immediately decided to go, even though I lacked a passport, didn’t know where Costa Rica was, and had chronic science deficit disorder.

The class, Natural History of Costa Rica, promised an “experience for those curious about tropical biology in one of the biodiversity capitals of the world.” We would stay at research reserves in wet, dry and coastal locations not readily available to tourists. We would be there two weeks in early January, and it would cost $1,600 plus tuition, books, and a few miscellaneous expenses. It would be hard to find a vacation package for such a reasonable price. This turned out to be much more than just a vacation, however. It was fascinating, it was fun, it was safe, and I even managed to understand about 80 percent of the science.

Getting the passport and locating Costa Rica on a map of Central America were easy. I figured my curious mind and determination would get me through the science deficit problem. My hopes were based on my experiences wandering around the U.S. in 2005. On an eight-month journey through 26 states, I learned that I just wanted to keep on learning. At every park, monument, museum, or planetarium, I took in as many presentations, demonstrations, and guided tours as possible and collected pounds of brochures and booklets. So I knew my mind was ready to study abroad, but what about the rest of me?

My qualms involved my eyes and my feet. After surgery for a macular hole and a cataract in one eye, I still see things a little skewed. In the other eye, floaters pop up at the most unexpected moments. Due to plantar fasciitis in both feet (inflammation of the tough tissue supporting the arches), the more I walk, the more they hurt. And lastly, I get off balance going down hills. My age, 65, was the least of my concerns – in fact, all the more reason to go on what seemed like the opportunity of a lifetime. So I ignored all of the above, packed a folding stool so I could rest my feet along the trails, really good binoculars that could be used with eyeglasses, began practicing getting up earlier (I have, after all, been retired for a year now) and went anyway.

Twenty of us flew out of San Francisco just after midnight on January 2. As we stood in line at the Taca International ticket counter, we recognized each other by the big rubber boots we had strapped onto our luggage, or were carrying, or as a last resort, wore. We’d all packed according to a list provided by the instructor, plus two unauthorized guitars and a harmonica.

Our first view of Central America was prefaced by a bright and beautiful sunrise on the approach to El Salvador where we changed planes. Our instructor, John Carothers, met us at a San Jose airport 3,660 miles from the California city with the same name. Accompanying him with a big turismo van was Don Carlos, our driver for most of our adventure.

The first thing I learned about Costa Rican culture was that Don – and Doña for a woman – are titles of respect for older men and women. Yes, I was Doña Joan, pronounced “Hone.” Throughout the trip, I also felt respect from my younger fellow students. Our group could be diagramed in the usual bell curve: a few at the right side (oldest), a few at the left side (youngest) and the rest inbetween. We also varied by occupation, race, income and level of education, but shared a concern and appreciation for the environment, and a desire to learn about a beautiful and fascinating place.

The first thing we learned, after unloading the van at our hotel in San Jose, the capital city of Costa Rica,

was about typical Costa Rican food. For me, it was love at first bite. A typical Costa Rican lunch or dinner, as served in many family-style restaurants and the dining rooms where we stayed, generally consists of white rice, black beans, a vegetable – frequently squash, salad, a slice of fried plantain (a banana-like fruit that cannot be eaten raw), and a fresh juice beverage. Lizano salsa is usually available to add a slightly piquant, slightly sweet flavor.

At the biological stations where we stayed, we became accustomed to eating beans and rice for breakfast. We were always served pico de gallo (black beans mixed with white rice), fried or scrambled eggs, slabs of delicious mild white cheese, coarse white and whole wheat bread, sometimes pancakes,

fresh juice, and flavorful Costa Rican coffee. The coffee was full-bodied without being either bitter or weak, even though it was made in large commercial urns. Mixed with sweetened cocoa powder and a little milk in a glass with ice, our do-it-yourself iced mochas were an addictive afternoon treat. At all meals, a variety of fresh, juicy, flavorful tropical fruit was available; white pineapple was a favorite.

Speaking of tropics – that’s where we were, about 10 degrees north of the Equator between Nicaragua and Panama. As explained by fellow student David Balogh, who teaches geography and meteorology at Cabrillo, this proximity to the Equator results in fast sunsets followed by sudden darkness. Sunrise is about 5:30 to 6:00 am, and sunset is about 5:30 to 6:00 pm year-round. No need for daylight savings time! Also, sunburn comes on more quickly because the sun’s ultraviolet rays are much more direct and stronger. The temperature was as consistent as the sunrise and sunset, usually in the 80s but sometimes hotter. What does vary is rainfall, and fortunately January is a dry month. Well, except in the rain forest, and we were there, in the rain. That’s why we had to bring big rubber boots and umbrellas.

Below is the most spectacular sunset I saw during this trip, over the warm Pacific Ocean at Cabo Blanco Absolute Natural Reserve at the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula.

For a country as small as Costa Rica – about one-eighth the size of California, or twice the size of Vermont – it packs in a lot of biological diversity. More species of plants and animals are in Costa Rica than any other country in the world – 10,000 plants and trees, 850 birds, 220 reptiles, and to the dismay of the squeamish, 35,000 species of insects. Why such rampant biodiversity? First, Costa Rica’s terrain is exceedingly diverse, consisting of rugged mountains and rain forests between coastal plains on both Caribbean and Pacific shores. Secondly, national parks and reserves protect 27 percent of Costa Rica’s natural resources. It has become a mecca for tropical biologists, ecologists and eco-tourists for the last 50 years. I felt privileged to be among those pilgrims.

But it wasn’t all sight-seeing for our group. Since this was a full three-unit class, and we spent most of our time at biological research stations, we crammed a lot of learning into two weeks. Our easiest assignment was a visit to Poas Volcano National Park on the way to our first outdoor classroom. Although the volcano hasn’t erupted in over a decade, the potential is evident. We smelled sulfur on our walk to the crater overlook, where we saw billowy smoke (fumeroles) rising and drifting in the wind. (See the proof below.)

This park is where I first saw epiphytes – more specifically, bromeliads – growing on branches of trees. Epiphytes get their physical support from the trees they grow on, but are not parasitic like mistletoe. They get nourishment from rainwater and decayed organic materials on the trees. Orchids and lichen are more familiar epiphytes. They choose these high perches to get more light, and to escape ground-based herbivores – animals that would nibble them to death. Below: a bromeliad in bloom, taken at Vulcan Poas National Park.

As we continued our bumpy ride through the mountains, sunshine gave way to clouds and then to a downpour, introducing us suddenly to a rain forest. We were in two vans, our luggage was on top, and the drivers had one tarp between them. Our van lost the draw for the tarp, so we quickly transferred the dampened packs inside on our laps and under our feet. Our temporary discomfort was lightened by music provided by five guys singing, a guitar and a harmonica.

We stayed at three biological research stations, two of them run by the Organization for Tropical Studies (OTS), a consortium of 63 universities and research institutions in the United States, Latin America and Australia. OTS, founded in 1963, focuses on education, research and the responsible use of natural resources in the tropics. Other visitors staying in the dorms and cottages at our first stop, La Selva, were researchers or students from universities. At our next OTS stop, Palo Verde, the only other visiting students were from Dartmouth, and at our final stop, Cabo Blanco Absolute Natural Reserve, groups such as ours visit by invitation only. Although our stays at these three reserves were pre-arranged educational experiences, the general public can sometimes visit and go on tours by going through a few hoops such as making reservations and paying fees. And of course the flora and fauna of Costa Rica are available just about everywhere to anyone who cares enough to pay attention and tote around a few books about birds, butterflies, plants and beasts.

At La Selva, tour guides led us through the jungle, acquainting us with the trees, flowers, birds, insects, butterflies, mammals, amphibians and reptiles. Our necks ached, our boots got muddy (and my feet were in misery) but we were so in awe of our surroundings that we didn’t care. On Day One, I talleyed 25 different birds and beasties. Our lists increased daily as we honed our detective skills, which anyone can do with practice. First, you start in serene surroundings with good binoculars and acute observational skills. Then you walk quietly, scanning below, sideways, and above for movement or creature-like blotches, either dark or colorful. Here's a photo of an iguana that wanted to get a closer look at us.

Since La Selva is a protected area, visitors must stay on paths and keep hands off living creatures, so the animals are less afraid. We saw several families of collared peccaries (visualize a wild boar), enough iguana so they became commonplace, and many absolutely stunning tropical birds. The obnoxious yowling of howler monkeys became our pre-dawn alarm clock. They are the loudest animal on terra firma (only blue whales are louder) and their howls carry over three miles or more. Our group saw them just once there and once at Palo Verde. They are elusive, traveling hither and yon by deftly swinging from branch to branch. Look closely and you can see one (or two if you've got sharp eyes) below.

We had a chance to flaunt what we’d learned at a restaurant stop near the end of the trip. A colorful bird was pecking at a bunch of over-ripe bananas hanging near an open window, and some gringos were asking “What’s that?” We could have said, with intellectual disdain, “That? Why, don’t you know a keel-billed toucan when you see one?” But we said it more nicely, of course.

At Palo Verde, a different type of iguana called a ctenosaur roamed freely and confidently around the biological station grounds, even though about 50 or so human beings were present. Perhaps we were ignored because the males were on a mission – enticing females with their courtly head bobs.

Other prolific wildlife in the Palo Verde wetlands included black-bellied whistling ducks, snail kites, egrets and blue heron, both indigenous and migratory. On solid ground, we saw how ants and acacia trees rely on each other. Ants live on ant acacias, getting nourishment from the trees’ secretions. The ants, in turn, protect the acacias from herbivores by releasing a nasty odor as well as physically attacking the surprised herbivore.

Which brings us to botflies, and why we were so conscientious about slathering on the mosquito repellent. We had read a frightening chapter in our textbook, “Tropical Nature,” about sneaky botflies that deposit their eggs on unsuspecting mosquitoes, which then land on animals or humans. The eggs detach, burrow under the skin, incubate and hatch. What begins as a mosquito bite becomes home to botfly larvae in a few weeks, and the process of evicting them is a difficult and gruesome procedure. Fortunately, none of us got that tell-tale bump that might have harbored a tiny living creature, maybe because we slept under mosquito netting (below).

So let’s change the subject and go on to mosquito-free Cabo Blanco Absolute Natural Reserve, at the tip of the Nicoya peninsula right on the Pacific Ocean. This 45-year-old reserve is a protected forest and marine environment managed by the only two Americans who are employed by the Costa Rica national parks system, biologists Milton and Diana Lieberman. They are affiliated with the University of Georgia but spend as much time as possible in Costa Rica. Not a bad job if you can get it! I noticed the bench outside their cottage is set up to view the sun setting over the ocean.

At the San Miguel Biological Station in Cabo Blanco Reserve, our emphasis was on marine life. We were forced to scavenge the beach and tidepools at low tide for shells and living sea creatures, and went snorkeling for a closer look at fish and other underwater dwellers.
Below: the Pacific Ocean as seen from the forested area at San Miguel Biological Station:

Probably because this is a less visited reserve, some forest creatures were quite brave. We saw coati and coatimundi daily as they moseyed around the forest behind the kitchen. They have long upright tails ending in a curl, and a cute, quizzical face, and unfortunately don't linger long enough for a good photograph. The raccoons also looked cute but were more pesky. At night, they climbed up on the open-air dining area deck and got into mischief. Heading for the bathroom in the wee hours one morning, I saw three of them playing with the contents of the aluminum can recycling container they had dumped, and decided to go to another facility. The next night, they found a forgotten backpack, zipped it open, and had a merry time scattering the contents.

The course included some floating learning experiences as well. At La Selva, we went on a boat ride on the Puerto Viejo River to see more riparian birds and animals, plus banana plantations – where the fruit is covered with thick plastic bags to protect it from banana-loving creatures – and a stop at a small tienda (store) for refreshing pineapple juice and an opportunity to shop. The most expedient way to get from Palo Verde to Cabo Blanco was by first traveling by boat on the Tempisque River to Puerto Humo, where Don Carlos picked us up and transported us over bumpy dirt and paved roads. From the boat, we saw many crocodiles and iguana sunning themselves on the riverbanks, and thousands of shorebirds as we passed Bird Island, including roseate spoonbills that get much of their pink color from the crustaceans they eat.

Some of the more energetic students extended their daylong learning experiences by going on night hikes. Although they had to watch out for venomous snakes, their rewards included glimpses of other less harmful snakes, cayman crocodiles, bright red poison dart frogs with blue hind legs, and tiny white bats that live under large leaves.

So here we were, in a lush tropical wonderland surrounded by the most gorgeous birds and most interesting animals I’ve ever seen in the wild, and John made us work. I guess that’s why it’s called “Study Abroad.” During our ten days at the three biological stations, we observed leaf cutter ants, counted palm trees, measured tree trunks and their buttresses, gathered and identified shells and tidepool creatures, and we still had to take a final exam.

When I said “we” measured tree trunks and their buttresses, I need to explain that only four of us did that. At La Selva, we split up into small groups. Each group had to come up with a hypothesis, gather data, analyze it, prove or disprove the hypothesis, write it up in PowerPoint, and present it to the class. Other groups hypothesized about walking palms, soil, and what was in the water. For some, the most challenging part of the project was figuring out PowerPoint.

As you might have guessed, my learning curve was a straight vertical line. Others had it easier, having been to Costa Rica before, and/or taken biology or botany classes, and/or knew some Spanish. My hunger for learning, especially in a very new environment, stood me well. Being observant in such beautiful surroundings was not difficult because the pay-off was well worth it, i.e., learning about the gorgeous or interesting creatures or plants I was enjoying. And by the end of the trip, I was able to order a meal in a restaurant and know what I’d be getting, pay correctly in colones, find (or ask for) a bathroom (baño or servicio), and knew to discard toilet paper in the wastebasket provided for that purpose. Plus identify a keel-billed toucan, of course.

The only things third-worldish that I noticed were the quality of the thin toilet paper, napkins and paper towels; the roads; and the occasional shacks we saw in the small villages. Only 18 percent of the population live below the poverty line (In Mexico it’s 37 percent, and in the United States it’s 12.7). Water was safe to drink everywhere, Coca-Cola and Canada Dry ginger ale are ubiquitous, and American dollars and credit cards are widely accepted – although using Costa Rican colones is easy, with an exchange rate of about 500 colones to one U.S. dollar.

About those roads – yikes! Outside of major cities, most roads are dirt and rock. We were told not to expect paved roads to be faster, and we quickly learned why. They are full of potholes. To avoid them, drivers careen wildly from one side of the road to the other, quite a hair-raising experience on winding mountain roads. On our first day in San Jose, three of us shared a taxi from a museum back to the hotel (only $3) and we immediately learned that drivers consider signs that say ALTA (stop) to mean “yield” and they didn’t always do that.

Would I go back to Costa Rica? You bet! I want to be a tourist there and go on an elevated sky walk in the rainforest, see a more active volcano, and just swing in a hammock watching birds and those speedy Costa Rican sunsets. The food is cheap and delicious, the coffee – ah, the coffee! I want to take a tour of a shade-grown fair trade coffee plantation, and meander through the Jade Museum, and – oh, you get the idea. But I wouldn’t go alone. The burglar bars, razor wire and guards at banks and businesses are a sure crime indicator to me, although Ticos (Costa Ricans’ name for themselves) blame the Nicaraguan migrant labor for the problems. The desk clerk at our San Jose hotel advised us to beware of pickpockets and thieves, and guidebooks offer advice on not getting ripped off by cabdrivers. So my classmates and I took precautions by buddying up when we ventured out in San Jose. In the more rural areas, however, paranoia seemed out of place. Burglar deterrents were nonexistent, front doors were open, and children walked and played futbol (soccer) unchaperoned.

I also have to return so I can use the few new Spanish phrases I finally learned. Instead of de nada (you’re welcome), Ticos say “much con gusto,” or literally, with much pleasure. The other phrase, “pura vida” – pure life – is used frequently as a joyous greeting.

If you’re interested in enjoying pura vida in Costa Rica while learning to increase your enjoyment, check out John Carothers’ website in a year or so. Following are some websites to increase your enjoyment of this article.

http://www.cabrillo.edu/~jcarothers/
http://www.ots.ac.cr/en/laselva/
http://www.costaricamap.com/ing/bioppalo.html
http://www.ots.duke.edu/en/paloverde/
http://www.costarica-nationalparks.com/caboblancoabsolutenaturalreserve.html

THE END ... of this newsletter, of the trip, of the cow parade we enjoyed while eating lunch at a rural roadside restaurant.

Joan’s 9th newsletter – the journey home

2005-12-14T15:00:00.000-08:00

When I wrote about big cities and small towns in newsletter #8, I forgot about Sharonville, Ohio. I needed a shower after two days of primitive camping at the Bob Evans Farm Festival. Heading west, I could see I’d be in Cincinnati around dinnertime but. didn’t want to get on a big freeway system just yet. The Motel 6 directory seemed to infer that Sharonville was a northern suburb of Cincinnati, so I headed there. The motel was in a mostly industrial area with a few fast food places and little traffic or scenery – just the bleakness I wanted.

The next morning, a Monday, there was still little traffic, and I had found the addresses of the library and a supermarket in the phone book. Although Sharonville is a suburb, it has a downtown with old historic buildings and a clean, well-cared for look. The library was next to a community center, and both were large modern buildings across from a big, well-manicured park. I didn’t encounter real traffic until I neared the Kroger supermarket in a newish shopping center, because it’s near a freeway entrance and gas stations. This Kroger, in the same family as Ralph’s, City Market, King Soopers and Fry’s (pick your state) was very upscale, with an impressive soup and salad bar and picnic tables outside. The newspaper left on the table was a Wall Street Journal, an indication of the demographics of the area. My seven-year-old van may have been the oldest and dirtiest vehicle in the parking lot. I learned later the population of Sharonville is about 14,000, and the population of Cincinnati is about 325,000. Boy, did I make the right choice!

The GPS

I just re-read newsletters 1-8, and saw a few references to my GPS but no details. At my 64th birthday celebration in late December, 2004, I was presented with a Magellan GPS, and I was numb with surprise because I knew those critters are costly. I left it in the hands of my family to figure out how it worked and explain it to me. After three of them played around with it, they realized it wasn’t user-friendly enough for me. So Kelly got a refund, did more research, and in February sent me a Garman StreetPilot and two pages of simplified instructions (including “Do not choose the offroad option!”).

Friends, the Garman was indeed user-friendly and from the time I received it, I relied on it nearly every driving day, and especially at night. Here’s how it works.

The GPS (aka global positioning system) knows where it is by communicating with two or more of the 24 satellites in constant orbit around the earth. Inside is a mini-computer containing detailed maps of the U.S. Mine has a touch-screen that I use to enter a destination, such as a town, street address, intersection, point of interest (such as a national park) or even a restaurant that can be chosen from a list in its memory. Once it has its instructions, the screen becomes a map with a wide purple line that shows the route, and an arrow that moves along the route to show my progress. It also shows estimated arrival time, plus miles and hours or minutes till the next turn, which count down as we drive along. The screen also shows me the name of the highway or street I’m on, and the exit number or street name I’m heading for.

But the best part is the voice that tells me things like “Drive 7 point 4 miles north,” “in point 5 miles turn left,” and “in 500 feet arriving at destination on right.” It’s a female voice that reminds me of Eve Arden, who portrayed a high school teacher in a radio, and later television, show called “Our Miss Brooks.” So I refer to the GPS as Miss Brooks. She sounds very much like a teacher when I’ve missed a turn – she’ll say “Off route. Recalculating … “ and gives me new directions. A friend swears she heard someone else’s GPS say “I told you to turn right!” but Miss Brooks has never said that to me – yet. She has rescued me innumerable times, especially when it’s dark and raining and I can’t read the street signs or building numbers. The estimated arrival time is very helpful too (are we there yet?). If you get one on my recommendation – and I recommend it highly to all frequent travelers – here are some caveats.
Very recently built streets aren’t in the system’s maps
Sometimes satellite reception is blocked, such as in a tunnel or in the midst of tall buildings (such as downtown Chicago)
She won’t know about local shortcuts, road work or detours
She led me over 40 miles of dirt road in northwest Arizona because it was the shortest route. But we weren’t lost!! The moral is: look at a map too, to be sure the GPS’s choice is a sensible one.

In the Land of Cotton

I have been in the land of cotton, and it was Mississippi and parts of northern Texas. Even while driving the Natchez Trace through a corner of Alabama and southwest to Tupelo, MS, I saw cottonfields interspersed among the forested areas. But they definitely dominated my route between Tupelo and the state line at the Mississippi River. My goal at this point was to arrive in Tucson one week hence, so I didn’t dawdle much after camping at Tombigbee State Park right off the Natchez Trace on October 21. I made a u-turn once to make sure the historic marker in the middle of nowhere really did say it was the birthplace of blues musician Mississippi John Hurt. I stopped soon after, at Greenwood, MS in the Mississippi delta, when I saw a sign for Cottonlandia Museum. Greenwood is at the junction of the Yazoo and Tallahatchie Rivers – don’t you just love those names? I was really in confederate territory here, and the two museum volunteers were actual southern gentlemen. When I volunteered at the Capitola History Museum near Santa Cruz, CA, I wore jeans and a tee shirt or sweatshirt. These guys, who must have been at least in their seventies, wore white shirts, ties, and dress pants. One of them was a retired cotton farmer, so as he escorted me around the exhibits he was able to explain how cotton was picked and processed. He told me I’d find a lot of cottonfields and mills around Lubbock, TX too, and I did. I stole a cotton boll from a field and, although it feels soft and fluffy, there’s a bunch of lumps (seeds) that have to be separated from the usable stuff. While driving, I saw a lot of baled cotton in solid bundles about the size of small boxcars waiting to get trucked to the gin mills before getting turned into consumer goods either in the U.S. or abroad. I was hoping to see the cotton being machine-picked, mostly to see if the plantation owners hired blacks to do that now that it’s no longer stoop labor, but alas I never did.

Another major type of farming in this area is what is nicely known as aquaculture, but it means catfish farming. The, um, product is called cultured channel catfish. I wonder if these cultured creatures have soft southern accents and wear dress shirts and ties before getting scooped out of their watery estates and sold for people food.

After crossing the Mississippi River on Route 82, I was in southern Arkansas, the sun was setting, the Arkansas Welcome Center in Lake Village was closed and the restrooms locked, no motels or campgrounds were evident, and I had to drive half-way across the state before I found a populated area with motels. Fortunately, it was less than 100 miles to El Dorado and the Flamingo Motel, another cheap but adequate place that was pointed out to me by the desk clerk at a motel across the street that had no non-smoking rooms.

Looking for lunch the next day, I passed a lot of Sonic Drive-Ins that look cool and retro but have no food for me – not even a salad. Finally I spotted a Burger King. In this part of the country, I brake for Burger Kings because they have veggieburgers and their senior citizen deal is usually a free beverage. (Cheap travel hint: if you’re age-eligible for a senior discount, always ask. I was never asked to show proof of age – darn.) It was Sunday, and several elegantly dressed black couples were dining there after church. Black folks sure have a sense of style – a portly broad-shouldered black gentleman looked really good in a navy pin-striped suit, impeccably tailored with the coat longer than usual.

If you look at a map, you’ll see my route went along Southern Arkansas directly into northern Texas at Texarkana. That city is in both Arkansas (pop. 26,448) and Texas (pop. 120,132). The state line is a street named State Line Street, and the federal building there straddles the state line. An intriguing listing in the AAA tour book for the Ace of Clubs House led me there even though I knew it would be closed. It couldn’t be hard to miss, I thought, and I was right. Yup, it looked like a club from a deck of cards, with three round clover leaf-shaped corners. Built in 1885, the local legend is that an area lumberman and Civil War veteran (confederate side) built it with his winnings from a poker game won with the draw of an ace of clubs. (http://www.texarkanamuseums.org/ace_of_clubs_house.htm) I also happened upon a mural celebrating Scott Joplin, the king of ragtime piano music. He was born nearby in 1868 and received his early musical training in Texarkana – the Texas side.

Texas, Texas, and more Texas

I spent two nights in Texas. Days, I just drove, staying on US 82 just south of the Red River which is the border between Texas and Oklahoma. Texas didn’t look any different than Arkansas until I got past Paris, when it really began to flatten out and open up. Trees disappeared, and grazing cattle and ranch entrances took over. The ranches were huge – I seldom saw any buildings. The standard formal entrance to a ranch is a tall arch over the driveway, with the name of the ranch across the top. One name I saw ended in .com, although I think that was really for a business. I drove on a highway rather than an interstate to avoid Dallas, and besides, I was headed to Albuquerque which is further north than Dallas anyway. But US 82 went through very small towns with no motels, so I was happy to see some signs pointing to the Nokona Inn when I got to that city around dusk. Although Nokona is home to leather goods factories that make baseball gloves, belts, and western boots, and Justin boots started here, it is still a small town with a population of just over 3,000. The very thin phone book covered five towns and had just 22 yellow pages. But the Nokona Inn, on the main street rather than along the highway, was luxurious. My room was large, with a king size bed, two sinks, a microwave and a mini-frig. The Inn was two stories and all rooms had inside entrances onto a wide hallway gussied up with plants, pictures, chairs and small tables, a magazine rack, and coffee in the morning. I think I was one of two customers, and it was the most expensive since the Best Western near Joshua Tree National Park, California in March. I paid $50.85 including tax. I used the microwave to heat up the last of the leftover vegan food my hostess at The Farm sent with me. The next morning, I used a plastic fly swatter to scrape the frost off the windshield of the van and started out for Lubbock.

My intention in Lubbock was to search for Buddy Holly. I knew there was a Buddy Holly museum, but didn’t know where. I hoped to see billboards or signs, but alas, saw none. I came into town on US 82; I guess tourist destination signs are only erected along interstates. It was also late afternoon when I got to Lubbock (I had stopped to photograph some cotton gins), and it was Monday, so I told myself the museum might not even be open and headed north to Amarillo.

Rip-off in Amarillo

By now Amarillo was my only choice for the night, and the motel coupon books led me to the Fifth Season Inn on the west side of town. I was grateful to have an address for the GPS to aim for, because I was driving in rush hour traffic facing the setting sun and had to depend on Miss Brooks telling me when to turn. The Fifth Season Inn was a three-story building with an elegantly furnished reception area, a “tropical atrium and unique fountain” (their words), nice big indoor swimming pool and spa, glass-walled elevators, and free hot breakfast – all for just under $35. How could I resist!

But appearances can be deceiving. The room was a different story after first glance. The carpeting, drapes, and bathroom fixtures were a little shabby, one window was cracked and taped, and the TV remote was missing. And worse yet, the next morning all my camping gear was missing from the top of the van.

I carried all my camping gear in a large gray waterproof bag sort of thing called a piggyback rooftop carrier, and it was attached to the roof rack with strong black straps. The thief (or thieves) had cut the straps and lifted the whole thing off. When I told the hotel manager and Amarillo policeman that I thought I was in a decent part of town, they said it was – had I chosen the east side, I wouldn’t have been. Whew! However, they said drug dealers had been working out of the Fifth Season until new management recently took over and got rid of them. Apparently some of the riffraff was still prowling around. I just googled the Fifth Season Inn and it looks pretty posh, with some rave reviews. So how the heck can you tell what’s safe and what’s not?

I didn’t let the theft spoil the rest of the trip, as I still had my cot and sleeping bags in the van, as well as all my cooking gear. To cheer myself up, I bought a new fancy camp chair with a footrest.

Why I Didn’t Stop in Albuqueque

Albuquerque was another one of those places I approached at rush hour and sunset, and the freeway warning sign said “Albuquerque Next 17 Exits.” Enough said. An hour later, I was in Grants had my choice of many big costly chain motels and locally-owned cheaper ones. So of course I chose the Desert Sun Motel, $19.95, with a very well lit parking lot where I could park the van right outside the door of my room. Here again, first appearances are deceiving. There were three fancily folded washcloths in the bathroom, one in a basket and one in a glass (and the other, if you’re counting, on the towel rack), and a black triangle-shaped corner table Frank Lloyd Wright could have designed.

Exploring Again in New Mexico

After so many days of just driving, it felt good to be somewhere with interesting places to explore. I began at the New Mexico Mining Museum in Grants. It’s a replica of – are you ready for this – a uranium mine. Yup, that radioactive stuff used for nuclear weapons and nuclear power plants, that causes lung cancer, pulmonary fibrosis, silicosis, tuberculosis, birth defects, and more. But it’s the only uranium mine museum in the world, and the way the mine tour is designed is really interesting. I was the only visitor in the dimly lit underground mine, but so many of the real miners were with me that I didn’t feel claustrophobic at all. At each tour stop, I pushed a button and heard the recorded voice of someone who had worked there for 25-30 years (and survived, obviously) explaining what was done at that particular spot. My strongest memory today is the lunchroom, with the dogtag bulletin board system of keeping track of where every miner was so they’d be sure not to blast when someone was still in the mine. I also got a kick out of the miners microwave circa 1950s – a metal box with high-heat light bulbs inside to warm up their lunches. Interesting that real microwaves use another radioactive metal, radium. I did some research and learned that the first microwave oven was called a radarange, was the size of a refrigerator, and cost $2,000 to $3,000. That was in 1947. By 1967, they’d shrunk to today’s large countertop size and cost $500.

Grants (population 8,800) was also where I found a real Internet café, with a row of computers available for the use of paying customers. For me, this was what you call a no-brainer – I would have eaten there anyway. I had delicious vegetarian minestrone soup, a big dense muffin, and strong iced tea made with espresso (after I explained how to make it). After checking my e-mail, I studied some brochures I’d picked up at the Mining Museum and realized I was so close to two national monuments that I could see them both that afternoon.

El Malpais, which means the badlands, was the second area of lava flows I’d seen this year, and if my balance were better, I could have walked through a lava tube. But lava is not easy to walk on, so I just hiked three miles round trip along mostly dirt paths to El Calderon cinder cone overlook. On the way back I saw what I thought were two tarantulas (solo, not together) very purposefully crossing the path – they didn’t even pause when I bent down for a closer look. At just over two inches across, hairy legs and all, they were smaller than the only other tarantula I’ve seen so I wasn’t sure. Later, back in California, I consulted two experts. A biology instructor said the area was right and fall is tarantula mating season, so they probably were guy tarantulas looking for sex. And when Peter reached into his freezer and got out the frozen corpse of poor dead Doris, his dear departed pet tarantula and the only one I’d previously been acquainted with, I looked closely and knew that I had indeed seen two smaller male tarantulas that would have been delighted if they’d met Doris when she was alive. http://www.desertusa.com/july96/du_taran.html has the most relevant photos and information for U.S. desert tarantulas.

When I got to El Morro National Monument, I found I could camp there for free because it was late in the season, the water was turned off, and it got down to the 30s at night. The price was right and I knew my sleeping bag would keep me warm, so I chose a spot that would get morning sun and settled in. Earlier, I had hiked around El Morro, which is a tall mesa-point with inscriptions carved into it dating back to 1605. This was before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. The earliest inscriptions are in Spanish, as Spain governed New Mexico then. Emigrants to California added their inscriptions in the 1800s, and all were mostly the “I was here…” type, for example:
The 18th day of September of 1737, arrived here the illustrious Senor Don Martin
de Elizacoches, Bishop of Durango, and the day following, went on to Zuni.

There are also undated and untranslated petroglyphs. On top of the mesa lie the ruins of a pueblo built about AD 1275 by early Zuni Indians. The following morning I would have attempted the two mile round trip hike up there if there hadn’t been a cold wind. Too bad – the view from the top must be stunning. Maybe another time, another season. Besides, I had the Petrified Forest in my sights.

Painted Desert and Petrified Forest – Finally

Ever since I was a child, I was intrigued by a smooth piece of petrified wood on my grandmother’s whatnot shelf and wanted to see where it came from. So it was thrilling to finally get there, but I didn’t see the same place Hazel and Ernie Henline saw. People keep stealing petrified wood for souvenirs, and there are guards at the entrances who have the right to search visitors. Still, there was enough left to amaze me.

I was unprepared for the size and simplicity of the Petrified Forest National Park, which includes the Painted Desert. Everything you need to, or can, see or hike to is near a single 28-mile drive-through road, and it takes one day max. Besides trees turned to stone, there are two visitors centers, a commercial gift shop and restaurant, lots of Painted Desert overlooks, ruins of an 800-year-old pueblo, and several places to see petroglyphs from afar (to protect them from further defacement). I learned that Arizona’s petrified forest isn’t the only one – a display in one visitors center had examples of petrified wood from all 50 states.

One last cheap motel, this time in Holbrook, before I got to Tucson. The only thing memorable at the Western Holiday Motel was the multi-use continental breakfast area. Tables and chairs were set up in the lobby, and when I checked out they were occupied by men from India socializing over tea. The motel was run by Asian Indians (not an uncommon occurrence in the west) so I wasn’t surprised.

Fort Apache

I was aiming for Fort Apache now. I had been there in March but the Fort Apache Museum was closed so all I could do then was walk the meditation labyrinth and vow to return. I passed through two towns with interesting names. Snowflake was named after two Mormon bishops, Snow and Flake, who founded the town. I learned this from a descendent, Rolf Flake, at a cowboy poetry gathering in Sierra Vista, AZ in February. Show Low has a less holy origin. It was named after a winning hand in a poker game and the town’s main street, Deuce of Clubs, was named after the winning card. South of Show Low is Pinetop, which reminded me of Bass Lake or Lake Tahoe in California, or any other scenic wooded area where people with excess money buy second homes behind long walls and security gates. A small shopping center catered to their needs, with a gourmet food store, expensive deli, and other upscale shops.

You can bet I saw quite a contrast driving into the town of Fort Apache, on the White Mountain Apache Reservation. The first sign of commerce was a supermarket in an aging building, with what looked like a flea market going on around the perimeter of the parking lot. Naturally I stopped. Along with the used clothes and household goods, people were selling roasted and salted pinon nuts, and homemade food items kept warm in Styrofoam containers, such as tamales, burritos, and frybread and beans. One vendor offered a friendly “Hi, how ya doin’,” so I asked if this happened every Friday. She said yes, but on tribal paydays it started on Thursday and lasted through Sunday. Of course I bought frybread and beans.

At the Fort Apache Museum, employees spoke in their native tongue to each other. So did the storyteller in a video I watched. He told the Apache creation story. My sister, a storyteller, tells me every culture has a creation story, some involving turtles or other animals. In the Apache version, creation began with a man and woman made of mud. Now that’s poverty, and a great imagination.

The fort itself began as a U.S. Army installation in the 1870s. Apache scouts were engaged to help the Army fight other Native Americans, also Pancho Villa in Mexico in 1916. The Army left Fort Apache in 1922, and a year later the Theodore Roosevelt Indian Boarding School took over. The White Mountain Apache Tribe-produced tour guide says “… thousands of Native American children … were often involuntarily taken from their families and brought here to be indoctrinated into Anglo-American society.” The school remains active, hopefully on Apache terms today.

Entering an open door in the adjutants office building (1876, adobe), I found an operational post office so bought stamps – with Navajo rugs on them; very appropriate. I also walked the labyrinth again, mostly to see if I could figure out the pattern after recently finishing a book, a novel called “Larry’s Party,” in which the main character designs mazes. I figured it out, and I’m not telling.

Since admission to the museum included a pass to nearby Kinishba Ruins, I went there even though it was early afternoon and I still had about 200 miles to drive to Tucson. Fort Apache is really off the beaten path and I might never get there again (even for frybread and beans). Ancestors of today’s Zuni and Hopi Pueblo tribes built and occupied the village at Kinishba between 800 and the 1400s AD. In the 1930s, faculty and students from the University of Arizona, as well as Apache workers, excavated and rebuilt portions of the village, as well as built a new museum and later a guesthouse. All are now abandoned and falling into a state of further decay. The village rebuilding “made liberal use of cement, saw-cut lumber, tin, and imagination” so it’s not exactly authentic and the visitor guidebook is a necessity.

In retrospect, I was here on just the right day, a Friday when both the museum and flea market were open. If you decide to visit, I recommend you plan for a Friday and visit both.

Tucson at last!

I had two reasons for visiting Tucson and friends Merlin and Lee again. Lee, a diabetic, had some recent health issues, causing them to cancel a trip, so I thought my visit would cheer them up a bit. Also, my sister and her husband, who live near LA, would be in Phoenix in early November and we planned to get together.

The two weeks I spent in Tucson went by very quickly. Merlin and Lee, also retired and loving it, are deeply involved in an organization for gay men called MSN (Mens Social Network) and I tagged along to activities such as charades and Scrabble night, a discussion group at a coffeehouse near the University, and we were invited to two dinners and one lunch at homes of friends of theirs. If only straight older women had such a network! Although I attended one meeting of a group I thought would be similar, the Tucson Desert Crones, the discussion topic was way unbelievable to me (healing by holding the correct finger, or jin shin jyutsu) and I was really disappointed.

Although Glenn the astronomer had left Tucson for greener pastures in Hawaii, Dave the astronomer was still there and suggested we take in an event at Tucson’s independent movie house. Award-winning animator Bill Plympton was present for a screening of some of his short films, a talk, drawing demo, and Q&A session. I had never heard of him, but am now a fan. His animation is like nothing I’ve seen before, and he has a very active and odd imagination. His topics are certainly not Disney, but his “The Fan and the Flower” film is family fare. It’s a love story about a ceiling fan and a potted plant. Check out www.plymptoons.com.

On November 4, Merlin, Lee, I, my sister Marsha and her husband Terry met in Globe, chosen because it’s roughly halfway between Tucson and Phoenix, and we all wanted to visit Besh-Ba-Gowah Archaeological Park nearby. However, it’s been at least 15 years since we’ve all been together so we spent most of the day talking. First we wandered and talked through the Cobre Valley Center for the Arts, housed in the 1906 Old Gila County Courthouse. Then we ate and talked through a lunch of Indian tacos ($5 each). FYI, Indian tacos are made with the usual taco ingredients but served on a big piece of flat, puffy frybread. Then we visited Besh-Ba-Gowah, watched the video, went through the small museum, and walked through some of the 300 rooms of a pueblo inhabited AD 1225-1400 by Salado Indians. But mostly we sat at a picnic table, talked, and showed vacation photos. Marsha and Terry hiked 50 miles along the Rogue River in Oregon this spring on a five-day Sierra Club trip, and more recently had driven to the Grand Tetons in Wyoming. You know how children often rebel by doing the opposite of what their parents did? Well, Marsha and I seem to do that by traveling, because our parents never took us on any vacations. (Well, our dad worked a lot, even on weekends.)

California Here I Come

I drove the approximately 800 miles from Tucson to San Jose in two and one-half days, leaving Tucson about noon and spending the first night at Burro Creek Recreation Site, a BLM facility about 100 miles north of Phoenix. It felt really good being out among mesquite and palo verde trees, Saguaro cactus and Joshua trees. The campground hosts, the Broussards, had just retired from teaching in Louisiana this year, selling their home 50 miles north of New Orleans in May. Mr. Broussard last taught on one of the islands outside New Orleans in the gulf, and talked about how Hurricane Katrina had interrupted his former students’ education. He had promised to return for graduation in 2006, but now the big questions were how many students were still there, and could they catch up and graduate on schedule. Mr. Broussard was an authentic Cajun, whose ancestors had been forced out of Acadia, Canada and ended up in Louisiana with many other refugees.

After leaving the Burro Creek camp, Miss Brooks the GPS decided to take me over about 40 miles of dirt road because it was the shortest route to I-40. She didn’t know I’d only be going between 15 and 40 miles per hour. Some of the desert area I passed had for sale signs and real street signs at the crossroads. Apparently someone hopes to develop the land. If you’ve bought any real estate between Wickieup and Yucca, AZ, I’ve seen it and it’s dry, windy, and barren. Sorry.

This may sound sad, but I would say the highlight of the rest of the trip was the Burger King in Mojave, CA. First of all, I knew I was definitely in California because they not only had veggie burgers, but a veggie burger meal deal. Of course I got the Star Trek watch, with Yoda on the watchband, for an extra $2.

After a night in a Mojave Motel 6, it was all Bakersfield, I-5, Hecker Pass and 101 into San Jose. Once a truck honked gently as it passed me on I-5, and I saw the name on the door was Juan Manuel Trucking. Then I remembered my “Honk if you’ve seen La Llorona” bumper sticker. Briefly, La Llorona, or the weeping woman, is a Hispanic folk tale about a woman whose unfaithful husband wants to leave her, so she takes her rage out on their two children and drowns them in the river, then jumps in the river herself and drowns. Her ghost can be seen sometimes at night, weeping and wailing for her children. Maybe Juan was telling me he’d seen her. My sister, who tells this story to groups of children and adults, says sometimes a Mexican child (or adult) will; tell her they’ve seen La Llorona.

End of Sermon

These newsletters have been fun to write, even though I’m a very slow writer. That’s because I go through the tourist information I’ve gathered up, and my journals, and do Internet research, before I even begin a draft. But this is good for me, because it provides valuable documentation for me of my first year of retirement travel, which is a darn good thing as my memory isn’t that good! This is my last newsletter of 2005, except for the oft-promised music festival special edition that I’ll work on next. I haven’t planned next year’s adventures beyond a two-week study abroad class on the Natural History of Costa Rica in early January. Yes, I’ll be getting out of the U.S., finally!

Happy holidays, everyone –

Joan’s 8th newsletter – where am I?

2005-12-03T13:17:00.000-08:00

It’s December 3, and today I’ll be moving in with Maryhill Gleason in Sunnyvale for the rest of the month. Maryhill is an old friend (age 89!) who just lost her live-in helper so I’ll be filling the gap until she finds someone else. She’s a slow walker but a quick wit and sharp as a tack at strategy and word games, so we’ll be playing a lot of Upwords and rummy.

So I’m back home again in California, where everything is over-priced and strangers don’t wave or say hello, but the coffee is robust and flavorful and being a vegetarian doesn’t brand me as odd. As I drove into San Jose on November 16, four or five lanes of freeway passed above me. Seems like a fine time to take my thoughts back to beautiful green Kentucky. I first entered Kentucky on September 23 and left October 19, with two brief forays into Tennessee (just as beautiful) and southern Ohio during that time. My most favorite Kentucky stops not already described in the last newsletter were Keeneland Racetrack near Lexington, and the Kentucky Music Hall of Fame and Museum in Renfro Valley.

When I told an old friend in Tucson that I was heading to Lexington for a horserace, he laughed and said I’d be bored. Well, I never saw a real race due to bad timing on my part (no races on Tuesdays), but I was anything but bored at Keeneland racetrack. Keeneland is one of the few racetracks in the world where visitors can get close to the horses. I was able to explore the grounds and stables, observe morning workouts, and patronize the track kitchen. I saw absolutely stunning horses grazing in the green meadows, working out on tracks, and being groomed in the stables. If you’ve seen the movies “Seabiscuit” or the recently released “Dreamer,” you’ve seen the beauty of race horses, and how they’re pampered by their trainers and groomers so they stay beautiful and happy. In the track kitchen, a cafeteria where I had French toast and juice, the walls were covered with photographs of – guess what – racehorses. I heard other people order a bacon sandwich (yup, just a lot of bacon between two slices of toast), an order of taters, and a bowl of beans. When I left driving west past the town of Versailles, I noticed a racetrack scene painted on the town water talk. Maybe I’ll see a race next year. (http://www.keeneland.com/)

Kentucky identifies keenly with its musical heritage, which was displayed especially well at the Kentucky Music Hall of Fame and Museum in Renfro Valley. Their introductory video answered for me the question Jerry asked at the Chillicothe, Ohio bluegrass festival – how did someone raised in Wisconsin become a bluegrass fan? The video gave credit for the resurgence of bluegrass music to the great folk music scare of the late ‘50s and early ‘60s, and that is indeed how I got introduced to all kinds of traditional music. The musicians that call Kentucky home include real old-timers and traditionalists such as Roscoe Holcomb, Homer and Lily May Ledford, Hylo Brown, Jean Ritchie, John Jacob Niles, the Osborne Brothers, and of course Bill Monroe. Other Kentucky musicians not-so-traditional are Loretta Lynn, Ricky Skaggs, Rosemary Clooney, Merle Travis, the Judds, the Everly Brothers, Dwight Yoakum, Billy Ray Cyrus, Mary Travers (of Peter, Paul and Mary) and Sam Bush. The list does not include Stephen Foster, who wrote “My Old Kentucky Home” but was born near Pittsburgh, PA, or Colonel Harland Sanders, who invented Kentucky Fried Chicken in the late ‘30s. The city of Corbin holds an annual World Chicken Festival, including a gospel music egg-stravaganza. If you don’t believe me, check out www.chickenfestival.com/sanders.htm .

One entire room of the Kentucky Music museum is devoted to the banjo, its history which began in Africa, and examples of more types of banjos than I knew existed. Another room explained for me the origin of a new phrase I’d begun hearing, “brush arbor.” It was sort of a poor man’s revival tent – a shelter made of log posts set in the ground with poles and fresh, thick brush piled on top for shade, under which people gathered to hear preachers and sing gospel songs. (http://www.kymusichalloffame.com/)

Although I was close to the Kentucky Artisan Center at Berea, I decided to save it for another trip because it was late in the day, it was raining, and the cheap motel coupon book directed me south into northern Tennessee. But those cheap motels, advertised at $22.95 and $24.95, had suddenly raised their prices to $45 and $65 because of a special event nearby – the Tennessee Fall Homecoming at the Museum of Appalachia. I now had two tasks – locate an affordable place to stay, and find out about that event. Both were accomplished when I got to the Knoxville hostel. My room cost $15, and the hostel owner/operator had programs for the homecoming event because he belonged to a harp singing group that would be performing there. (Harp singers, also known as sacred harp singers or shape note singers, perform early American hymns in three and four part a cappella style.)

Knoxville, Tennessee

Knoxville turned out to be a trip highlight. My first day there, I walked downtown with two goals: find the visitors center and some good coffee. They were both in the same place, as well as a free musical performance at noon. Turns out the building houses the visitors center, a small book and crafts sales area, a café, and a public radio station that broadcasts The Blue Plate Special live music program every weekday at lunchtime. On Friday I saw some local singer-songwriters, and on Monday I saw a western group followed by cowboy poet Waddie Mitchell, who had performed at a storytelling festival nearby that had a much higher admission price. In a store window just down the street, I saw some very cool posters that appeared to have been printed a long time ago. Wrong. They had been recently printed on a hand-operated letterpress and were created using old-fashioned cold type and linoleum block artwork. Yeehaw Industries produced the poster for the 2002 Woody Guthrie music festival, and I had attended the 2005 festival in July. Music does indeed shrink the world. (http://www.yeehawindustries.com/)

At the library, I was issued a free temporary library card for a month that allowed two hours of computer use per day, the most generous deal so far. I was almost tempted to stay in Knoxville for a while, but there was a festival calling me back to Ohio soon. So I made the most of this sojourn in Knoxville, and may return for more music and some museums and walking tours I missed. I went to a concert by the Tennessee Sheiks (acoustic swing) at Laurel Music Hall, which had originally been a small church; saw the 1945 Nazi spy movie “The House on 92nd Street” and an exhibit of surrealist drawings and short films at the art museum; saw the outside of the L&N (Louisville & Nashville) train depot, idle and vacant now but in excellent condition with fine wood and stained glass windows; saw the location of and buildings left from the 1982 worlds fair; stood outside the hotel that Hank Williams, Sr. may have died in (whether he died in the hotel or in his car is debatable); ate good vegetarian food several times at restaurants in Old Market Square; and enjoyed a Sunday morning omelet at the hostel that included kudzu. (I’ll explain kudzu later.) That all took three days.

The day I spent at the Fall Homecoming event at the Museum of Appalachia was quite special. It was hard to choose among the four stages of music and clog-dancing. I wandered back and forth, catching other events inbetween such as rail splitting, blacksmithing, basket weaving, soap making, and sassafras tea brewing (it tastes like hot root beer but not as sweet). There are 36 vintage buildings and animal pens on the grounds, including a museum and hall of fame of both bluegrass musicians and just plain folks, which drew me in even though the live music was my primary reason for being there. So I took music back home with me, on a four-hour video of music highlights from 2000. It was a special year since it included John Hartford’s last performance there (he died in June 2001). I made sure to see Ralph Stanley’s performance, however, the third time I’ve seen him this year after he had open heart surgery in June. At the Bill Monroe festival in Rosine, KY on September 28, and here on October 8, he was able to perform a full set and said he was getting stronger every day.

Okay, here’s the kudzu lesson. Kudzu is a vine that is invasive and exotic. When left uncontrolled, it will eventually grow over almost any fixed object in its proximity, including other vegetation. See amazing photos at http://www.jjanthony.com/kudzu/ of kudzu covering trees, small buildings, fences, and even motor vehicles. It is edible, but not a wildly popular food item yet. From an NPR report I heard an unknown number of years ago, I got the impression that kudzu would soon be covering up the entire south, so I was on the lookout for it. Finally saw some driving south of Renfro Valley into Tennessee, and then saw some more, and more, and moreandmoreandmore. It ain’t everywhere, but there sure is a lot where it does take hold.

Kentucky was also where I learned that a song’s lyrics may not be an entirely true tale. As I drove into Knoxville, I started singing the old folk ballad that begins:
I met a little girl in Knoxville, A town we all know well,
And every Sunday evening out in her home I’d dwell …
and ends with the singer murdering his sweetheart. Well, it didn’t really happen in Knoxville, but the city’s tourist brochure comes clean about that. It says the event actually took place in 1744 in Berkshire, England, and the English folk ballad written about it was imported to the North American continent and Americanized.

When I had first driven into Kentucky from Missouri, the phrase “western Kentucky” had a familiar ring to it, and then I remembered John Prine’s song “Paradise.” It begins
When I was a child, my family would travel to western Kentucky where my parents were born….
and the chorus goes
And daddy won’t you take me back to Muhlenberg county,
Down by the Green River, where Paradise lay.
‘Well I’m sorry my son but you’re too late in asking,’
‘Mr. Peabody’s coal train has hauled it away.’

I consulted a map and found the name Paradise, so what gives about it being hauled away? When I found myself in a library in Muhlenberg county, it seemed the right place to check out it out. The Muhlenberg County website says the Peabody Coal Co. did not actually stripmine the site and haul the town away. The Tennessee Valley Authority removed the town (two stores and an unknown number of houses) and built the Paradise Fossil Plant, a coal-fired electric plant, beginning in 1959. I decided not to visit. By the way, Kentucky’s state mineral is coal, and the state musical instrument is the dulcimer.

Kentucky is not paradise to everyone there, believe it or not. In Madisonville, the bagger who carried my grocery purchases out to the van exclaimed how homesick he was for California when he saw my license plate. He was from Louisville but had been living in San Diego until familial duties called him back to Kentucky. (I had thought he looked a little out of place there, with his double-pierced ears and baggy shorts.) He said all available jobs paid minimum wage, and he and his wife hadn’t found anyone with similar values to socialize with.

A couple of farm visits

The Ohio festival I mentioned earlier was the 35th Annual Bob Evans Farm Festival at Rio Grande pronounced Rye-oh Grand), October 14-16. My new friends at the Chillicothe, OH bluegrass festival probably recommended it because the house bluegrass band at the Farm Festival is the Rarely Herd, and one of the band members is Gene’s son, one of the guys I met at Chillicothe. Reconnecting with Gene, Ron the bluegrass deejay, and the Rarely Herd band members meant a lot to me because I had been in the midst of strangers since September 20. The Farm Festival also gave me the opportunity to see tractor square dancers. I am not making this up. Four couples – yes, real women and not just guys in dresses and wigs – actually square danced while driving tractors. They had to be very attentive and agile, and not mind the dust and fuel fumes, and they did a darn good job. Drew a bigger crowd than the horseshoe pitching or the border collie herding, although both of those were amazing and amusing too.

In the late ‘50s, Bob Evans and his wife Jewell began making sausage that actually had more meat and good-tasting stuff in it as opposed to fillers such as cereal that other sausage-makers used. When they made TV ads, Bob and Jewell invited folks to “come on down and visit us” at their Rio Grande farm. Well, people took them up on it. So Bob and Jewell opened a restaurant on the farm on 1962. There are now nearly 600 Bob Evans, Owens Family and Mimi’s Café restaurants in 20 states, mostly east of the Mississippi. The menu and décor is an upgraded Denny’s but way more meat-oriented. I tried eating at a Bob Evans restaurant twice and only found one meatless choice, a basic eggs-potatoes-toast breakfast. Now personally, I think meatless sausage and hot dogs produced now are quite tasty, and it’s easier to raise the ingredients, but in 1962 I’m sure I would have enjoyed Bob Evans sausage.

Bob and Jewell’s former home on the farm is now a museum, with the kitchen left intact because it was their test kitchen in the early days, as well as the setting for their TV ads. The rest of the downstairs was a history of their sausage making, which I hurried past and went upstairs to see the traveling Underground Railroad exhibit. It was there because sympathizers in Ohio provided many safe places for runaway slaves to stop on their way to safer northern states or Canada. The exhibit was small but powerful, with replicas of leg restraints, photos of scarred backs, and drawings of slave auctions. As a humanitarian vegetarian, the exhibits on both floors provoked emotions.

The other farm I visited was, simply, The Farm. Arthur, my housemate in Santa Cruz in 2003, had grown up on The Farm and urged me to visit it, even making arrangements for me to stay with a woman there near my own age. Paraphrasing from The Farm literature, here’s what it’s all about: The Farm community is a cooperative enterprise of families and friends living on three square miles in southern middle Tennessee. It was started in 1971 by Stephen Gaskin and 320 San Francisco hippies as an experiment in sustainable, developmentally progressive human habitat. As many as 1500 people lived there at one time, learned to work together cooperatively, took a vow of poverty upon arrival and shared the resources whether they were plentiful or sparse. Today The Farm has all of the usual implements of village life for its 350 residents plus visitors: grocery store, a school, their own water system, a visitors center, community center, cemetery, Ecovillage, businesses and residences. The businesses include a soy dairy, book publishing company, tempeh lab (they sell tempeh spores) and a mail order business. The Ecovillage conducts hands-on workshops in sustainable building techniques such as solar technology, straw bale and cob buildings (cob is a mixture of dirt, sand and straw so it’s both cheap and durable).

From www.thefarm.org website: “Among ourselves we try to use agreement and mutual respect to generate a friendly working environment. We recognize that there are many paths toward realizing personal ideals and that people have a wide range of individual social values, but as a group, we do not accept the use of violence, anger or intimidation for solving problems. The fabric of our community is created by our friendship and respect for one another, and for our land.” They respect animals, too – everyone’s a vegan (no meat or dairy products).

I stayed with Ramona for two days, sharing her delicious vegan food and immersing myself in the atmosphere of The Farm. (Later, reading a book I bought about The Farm, I learned that visitors who wanted to learn about The Farm life were referred to as “soakers”). Although, admittedly, the early days were difficult with long work days and scarcity of food, the friendships were solid and lasting. Former residents look forward to an annual reunion. Ramona appreciates being able to take for granted the support of others when she needs to make a decision. And I appreciated the peaceful pace and friendliness of everyone I met.

Avoiding Cities and Finding The Heart of Small Towns

Throughout my trip, I attempted to avoid big cities as much as possible. (Yes, I went to the heart of Chicago and Milwaukee, but that was for a special cause – to introduce Meagan to its art and architecture, and I also knew them quite well.) My reasoning at first was because driving the fast, confusing freeways around big cities spooks me, and I wanted to stay away from congested city streets, high-priced parking, unwittingly driving through high-crime areas, etc. A secondary reason was the fact that I really like small towns. I lived for 20 years in the village of Soquel, CA, within walking distance of Capitola Village, and about five miles from downtown Santa Cruz (population of the city of Santa Cruz is about 50,000). I acquired a real appreciation of the smaller size and slower speed of such places. Also, the scenic areas I visited on this road trip mostly happened to be wide open spaces which you can’t hardly find near population-dense metropolitan areas. While I was on my way to some of those near-wilderness areas, I happened upon some delightful finds in small towns, for example:

· Ajo, Arizona (north of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument), population ~5,000 – a motel that offered one-room cabins near an outdoor Jacuzzi and swimming pool, and a bakery/coffeehouse that hosted a Scrabble night.
· Grants, New Mexico (near El Malpais and El Morro National Monuments), population ~9,000 – its main street was old Route 66, a Mexican restaurant patronized by locals served Indian tacos on fry bread, and the espresso bar that had vegetarian soups and sandwiches was an unexpected lucky find.
· Elk City, Oklahoma, population ~10,000 – I camped at a city park on a lake that I found on freecampgrounds.com, then went into town just to use a library computer. I discovered the Route 66 Museum, got in several interesting conversations there, ditto at the supermarket, and left feeling almost like a local.
· Chillicothe, Ohio (near Indian mounds and a music festival), population ~22,000 – founded in 1803, my first experience in a really, really old town with many pre-1900 buildings, brick streets, big old trees, and a home-cooking restaurant that had southern style sweet tea and fried green tomatoes.

I’ll use Central City, Kentucky as an example of how I find the heart of small towns. When I exited the Western Kentucky Parkway, I was just looking for some sit-down time to plan my next move and have an afternoon snack. The fast food joints were near the exit, as were gas stations and motels, which are not the heart of anyplace. While enjoying a McDonald’s soft serve cone, I decided to look for a library to check my e-mail, and drove aimlessly toward what I thought would be downtown. As I got closer, it was easily recognizable by the cluster of older brick buildings and non-franchise restaurants. I turned a corner and there was the library. Further down the street I saw an American flag flying from a tall flagpole – usually a landmark for a government building such as a post office (something else I needed). I also saw a small park, kids walking home from school, women rocking on the porch of a senior citizen apartment building – all signs of a real community. I dawdled so long doing my errands that it was nearly 5 p.m. so I decided to spend the night in a motel there. The town was small enough that I was able to drive past all of them and choose the one furthest from the freeway noise – another benefit of driving further into the town from the freeway exit.

Two slightly larger Kentucky cities had downtowns that were very different. The population of Paducah is ~26,000, and Elizabethtown has ~24,000 residents, not counting the military population at Fort Knox north of there. I exited the freeway west of Paducah and drove for miles along a corridor of big box stores, fast food places, and nicer franchise restaurants and hotels before I reached the heart of the city. The library was across the street from a large park and even had a display rack of maps and tourist information. Although I camped at Land Between the Lakes about 40 miles away, I returned to Paducah to use a library computer. I also visited the heart of the town, which was rich in history – old, well-kept brick buildings, historical markers, murals along the seawall, two big museums and many good restaurant choices.

The approach to Elizabethtown after I exited the freeway was similar, but the downtown was disappointing. Although there were old brick commercial, government and residential buildings, it was missing a few things. I didn’t see any pedestrians. I couldn’t find any retail stores or restaurants, or even a place to park except in the government building parking lots. I wondered where people who worked downtown went for lunch. Although the city’s web site advertises museums, most of them are in other nearby towns. I went to one of Elizabethtown’s two museums, Swope’s Cars of Yesterday (which was inside a car dealership) and skipped the museum of Coca-Cola memorabilia. The library, which used to be near downtown, had recently moved into a big new building between an expressway and a suburban residential area.

I guess the moral to this tale is you just never know what you’re going to find, but it’s worthwhile searching for the heart of a place anyway.

I’m at my self-imposed 6-page limit now. Next newsletter will conclude this year’s trip with my experiences in Alabama and Texas, new territory in New Mexico and Arizona, and Tucson again.

Joan’s 7th newsletter – September 18 – October ??

2005-11-08T15:58:00.000-08:00

When you last heard from me, I had just experienced that motel in Marshfield, MO with the fly swatter hanging on the wall. That was September 18. It is now November 8 and I am in Tucson again, staying with friends for a few weeks before heading back to California to stay with my daughter until the adventures begin again in January 2006. This newsletter will go a bit out of sequence in order to lump the national parks and similar "things" together for comparison purposes. You’ll see why when you get there. But first, let’s begin with …

Finishing Missouri

At the rest stop off of I-44 near Conway, MO, I experienced a sink thingy so unique I just have to tell you about it. All you have to do is stick your hands into a concave "hole in the wall" and wait for liquid soap to magically appear, then water, and finally hot air, all for just the right amount of time. For their next trick, will they figure out how to wipe our butts for us?

At the Rockin’ Chair restaurant in Conway, I had the most abundant cheap breakfast so far: $2.95 for eggs, hashbrowns and biscuit, $1.25 for one pancake, and 65 cents for a cup of coffee that they just kept filling. The Conway library was the first I encountered that didn’t have computers for public use, although the volunteer let me try (unsuccessfully) to connect to the Internet on the staff computer. Until a few years ago, Conway didn’t have a library. After a 16-year-old local girl was killed in a car crash, the library came about through donations in her memory. The holdings are on a mis-matched conglomeration of shelves and bookcases in an area about the size of a large living room.

So I went south to Marshfield, stopped at the Chamber of Commerce for directions to their library, and learned that some NASA folks would be in town that weekend during their harvest festival. Why? Edwin Hubble was born there in 1889. He’s the guy who proved that the universe is expanding. A one-quarter size replica of the Hubble telescope stands in front of the court house there. I’ve learned that astronomy-related stuff is all over this country. Well, the sky is always up there, and rural area folks can see it better than city dwellers.

Visiting Mitch and Diana Jayne

Remember the Dillards, a bluegrass band that began performing in the early 1960s? They also appeared on some Andy Griffith shows as the Darlin’ Boys, the usual ignorant hillybilly stereotypes but these guys could sing and play music like they were the real thing because they were. My husband and I crossed paths with them many times, and I even exchanged Christmas cards with Mitch and Diana for a while until my last one came back from Columbia, MO marked "addressee unknown." Well, that’s because they moved to Eminence, a small town in the southeastern Ozarks where Mitch had wanted to live for many years. They had to wait for someone to die first so they could buy a house. The townspeople find out when a death occurs when a black border and a funeral notice appear on the bulletin board outside the post office, where everyone goes to pick up mail. Founded before the Civil War, the current population is about 600, and it’s located near the Current River and Jack’s Fork. Lots of river activity in the summer, and tourist season extends into fall hunting season. Well, it’s the Ozarks.

Mitch met Rodney and Doug Dillard when he was teaching in a one room schoolhouse in the Ozarks, and together with mandolin player Dean Webb they formed the band. Mitch is also a writer; his books include "Old Fish Hawk," made into a movie in 1980 and an audio cassette in 1995, and his latest "Home Grown Stories and Homefried Lies," both available on Amazon.

The original foursome last performed together in November 2002 as part of a tribute to Woody Guthrie at Carnegie Hall, with Arlo Guthrie, Pete Seeger and a who’s who of other musicians, not including the ghosts of those who previously graced the stage at Carnegie Hall over the years. Everyone who performs there has to enter the stage from the same narrow wing, which thrilled Mitch no end knowing he was standing where they had all stood before going on stage. At age 77, Mitch has lost a lot of his hearing and is plagued by diminishing eyesight as well, but I’ll bet he’ll always be a writer and a storyteller. We swapped stories and news of family and musician acquaintances until two in the morning, and most of the next day as well. Mitch is not 100% retired, as he continues to write and publish newspaper and magazine articles. Diana is a freelance artist and illustrator. The group you may see billed now as The Dillards is Rodney and Doug. Dean Webb appears with the bluegrass band Missouri Boat Ride, and coincidentally that band and Mitch were both on the program a few weeks hence at a fundraiser to restore an old school in southern Missouri. For more information, see www.mayberry.com and search for Dillards, also check www.oldtimemusic.org/dillards.html .

Driving along two-lane U.S.60 through lengthening evening shadows was like being on a rollercoaster, up, down, and twisty. I would catch a glimpse of oncoming headlights and then they would disappear in a dip, appearing again at the top of a rise. I saw coon dogs and deer where the woods and fields met the road. In some places the shoulders were really wide, possibly to accommodate Amish buggies. The Amish farms stood out with their windmills, lack of electric and phone lines, laundry hanging out to dry, and absolutely no junk cars scattered around the property. The rolling hills, caves and springs of the Ozark mountains really got me wondering about the geological cause of it all, so I went to Google to satisfy my curiosity. If you don’t care about karst, just skip the next paragraph.

From http://www.umsl.edu/~joellaws/ozark_caving/springs/sprkarst.htm I learned that I was driving over karst, which is "any terrain based on a layer of soluble bedrock, usually, though not always, of carbonate rocks. In the American Midwest, karst forms on limestones (calcium carbonate) and dolomites (magnesium calcium carbonate.) … But the karst of the Missouri Ozarks is almost textbook, and is characterized by well eroded rolling hills, deep hollows, springs, caves, sinkholes, losing streams, natural bridges, and tunnels." Yup, Missouri had a lot of those. I had to look up "losing stream," and it’s just what you’d expect – a stream that simply disappears into the earth. Getting a bit more technical, "Karst is formed when rainwater picks up carbon dioxide from the air, and dead plant debris in the soil, then percolates through cracks dissolving the rock. The bedrock becomes saturated with water at some level, and dissolving continues as the water moves sideways along bedding planes (horizontal cracks between rock layers) and joints (or fractures) in the rock itself. These conduits enlarge over time, and move the water, via a combination of gravity and hydraulic pressure, further enlarging the conduits through a combination of solution and abrasion of water on the surrounding rock. Eventually, much of this water under pressure reaches the surface of the land as a spring. … In some areas of the Ozarks, more than 70% of all water goes underground via karst processes."

The rollercoaster finally leveled out east of the Mark Twain National Forest, and the landscape began to include flat fields including what looked like cottonfields. Later I learned this was the furthest north cotton grew. As I approached Sikeston, I saw a billboard for a discount CD store and just happened to end up staying at a motel right next to the outlet mall it was in. The selection there was deep in bluegrass, country and gospel unavailable in Santa Cruz or San Jose. About $40 got me a bunch of CDs – mostly bluegrass but also Johnny Cash, Jimmy Rodgers and a reggae mix – plus eight one-hour books-on-tape for a quarter each. A great find. The Sikeston library was also a great find. Even though they didn’t allow non-educational use of their computers so I couldn’t check e-mail, the staff really helped me with directions on getting into Kentucky. They knew the closest bridge over the Mississippi River was an impassable construction zone and routed me further north through Cairo (pronounced Karo like the syrup), Illinois. At this point I was near New Madrid (pronounce Madrid with emphasis on the first syllable) so apparently this was the foreign part of my trip. I resisted the advertising that urged me to visit Cape Girardeau to see what influenced Rush Limbaugh as a child there.

Take Me Back to Old Kentucky…

My first impression of Kentucky was of the rivers I crossed, the Mississippi and Ohio, being used for commerce. Lots of commercial barges and tugboats, and some riverboats for tourism. The most commercial river vessels I recall in the west are inflatable rafts. Next I thought I smelled tobacco growing in the fields. Later on I saw a lot more tobacco: growing, being harvested, drying in tobacco barns, and being black-fired in smokehouses. No wonder smoking in public places – even convenience stores (well, that was in Missouri) – is allowed; it’s all part of their economy. Sigh. I wish they’d grow tofu instead.

My second impression was of all the huge homes and yards. As I was looking for the suburban library outside Elizabethtown, I was told to look for the big building on a hill. Well, that described all the private residences in the area too. Even one of their rest stops is a former estate home listed on the National Register of Historic Places (see http://www.kentuckylake.com/activities/historic/whitehaven.htm)

I spent nearly a month in Kentucky and Tennessee, most of that time in Kentucky, and I hope to go back for more. The lush greenery of the mountains and fields of bluegrass just never seemed to end, especially while driving on the many parkways. All of Kentucky’s parkways were former tollroads, and aren’t as wide, fast, or full of commercial truck traffic as the interstates. I’ve been in desert areas of New Mexico and Arizona for over a week now, and still can’t decide which I like the better – green trees and mountains, or the cactus, sand and rocky mountains. Kentucky Heritage magazine, at http://travel.ky.gov/KentuckyHeritage/ , has a number of good descriptive articles should you want to read more about Kentucky.

National Parks, Areas, and Sites

I’m going to discuss the following federal lands, listed below in the order I experienced them, and skip the events inbetween so they can be compared more easily:

Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area, near Paducah, KY

Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historic Site, south of Louisville, KY

Mammoth Cave National Park, central Kentucky

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Tennessee and North Carolina

Cumberland Gap National Historical Park, southeast Kentucky

Dayton (Ohio) Aviation Heritage National Historic Park

Natchez Trace Parkway, a National Scenic By-Way in Tennessee, Alabama and Mississippi

All can be searched for at www.nps.gov

Cumberland Gap

Historically, it makes sense to begin with the Cumberland Gap because it was the first passageway into Kentucky. The Cumberland Mountains (named after the Duke of Cumberland) seemed impenetrable until an early explorer found a way through at the gap in 1750. It had been a buffalo trail first, and then a passage used by Cherokee Indians. But Dr. Thomas Walker saw no reason to go beyond the gap, so no one did until 1775 when Daniel Boone blazed the way. Eventually he led thousands of pioneers into Kentucky, where he and his family also settled. The Cumberland Gap was the only route until the Ohio River, and then a few roads, took its place in the late 1790’s. The trail through the high point at the gap can be walked on today, and it was truly the first time on this trip when I really felt the presence of the people who had been there before me. Highly recommended for history buffs, including both films at the visitors center (which includes a shop selling items made by local artists and craftspeople).

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Just before my visit to the Cumberland Gap, I had a very disappointing visit around and about the Great Smoky Mountains. I have only myself to blame, because I ignored the warnings that it’s the most visited national park, and that traffic to and through it is horrendous. Therefore, I’m telling it like I experienced it and you can decide whether or not to go there.

The warning light should have lit up in my head when the Knoxville hostel owner, who runs a shuttle delivery service between Knoxville and the three towns north of the park entrance, told me he takes along two magazines and a newspaper to read while sitting in traffic there. The residents and imported help in Sevierville, Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg exist on the dollars tourists spend there on overpriced, overhyped tourist traps, such as Dolly Parton’s amusement park Dollywood, numerous dinner theaters (and breakfast and lunch theaters), Ripley’s Believe it or Not museum, restaurants, souvenir shops, special events, and on and on. The population of Gatlinburg is 3,382 and they have 11,000 beds for tourists (kaching!). The state sales tax in Tennessee is 10%, and municipalities can – and do – tax purchases even more (kaching!). At the Gatlinburg Wendy’s (I’ve become addicted to their frosties that taste like chocolate malts), I noticed many of the usual 99 cent specials were $1.29 (kaching!). At the Gatlinburg Visitors Center, I was told that the majority of visitors never go into the park "because there’s nothing to do there."

Not so. It’s a huge park with plenty to do, including walking along part of the Appalachian Trail. But, like Yosemite, it’s too popular for its own good. Advance reservations are recommended to camp, and it was one of the few places I camped that had no showers. The vehicles driven into the park contribute pollution to the smoky haze, which is actually mist. That means dampness, moisture, humidity – this summer the humidity was as high as 90%, plus it was hot!

Still, many people love the Smokies. I took the shuttle bus from the campground into Gatlinburg (to avoid traffic and parking hassles), and the driver was a sixth generation Gatlinburger with many stories to share. I went on a 3-1/2 mile stroll along the Appalachian Trail with a couple who visit the Smokies every year. Being on the Appalachian Trail, and meeting the father and son who’d been hiking it for four days so far, was the highlight of my visit. I won’t go there again unless I can find a way to avoid the crass commercialization surrounding the park. Even exiting to the south took me through Cherokee, North Carolina, which has a Harrah’s Casino, a trading post and beer park, Santa’s Land fun park, curio shops – have you heard enough?

Mammoth Cave National Park

By contrast, Mammoth Cave National Park was an entirely different and more pleasing experience. More than 250 miles of underground passages have been surveyed so far, although tours go into only a small portion of them. Above ground, 53,000 acres offer forests, meadows, hiking and biking trails, the Green River, wildlife and views of sinkholes – this is karst territory (see previous explanation of karst in the Missouri Ozarks). I went on a late afternoon boat ride on the Green River and saw softshell turtles sunbathing, wood ducks and great blue heron. Wild turkey and deer looked for dinner by the side of the road. I had a shower! I ate breakfast in the park hotel restaurant (so-so, but hot and reasonable). I could have stayed at the hotel for $50 or in a cottage with private bath for $36. Oh, and I went on a cave tour, choosing the shortest, easiest one because the Colossal Cave tour in Arizona in February had been difficult due to my crazy eye problems. Although I didn’t get dizzy on the Mammoth Cave tour, I did have balance problems due to the uneven walking surface. Thankfully, the tour was short (one hour) and cheap ($2.50) and interesting. No spectacular stalagmites and stalactites, but we heard historical and geological facts, saw the remains of the saltpeter mines, the church service area, one small bat at rest, and total darkness. The guide turned off all the lights and now I know what pitch black means. In October, this park was neither crowded nor cold; highly recommended.

Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area

I had never even heard of Land Between the Lakes (LBL) before seeing it on the Kentucky map. I went there for quiet time and a cheap stay because I had time to kill before the Bill Monroe music festival about 60 miles away. LBL camping cost me $6 a night with my Golden Age passport, and they had super-clean restrooms, showers, a brand-new washer and dryer, and a convenience store with reasonably-priced bagged ice. I stayed five nights.

LBL is a peninsula 43 miles long between two lakes that had originally been two rivers until a TVA dam widened them. It had been home, in this order, to prehistoric peoples, six different native American tribes, former revolutionary soldiers who received land grants there, and others who farmed, fished, logged, tanned animal skins, worked in the iron and charcoal industries, and made moonshine liquor. But it became increasingly more difficult to make a living in this contained area, and in the early 1960’s, the feds turned it into a multi-use national recreation and conservation area. Today visitors fish, swim, boat (it has 300 miles of shoreline), camp, hike, ride horses, see protected herds of buffalo and elk, and visit an observatory, planetarium, and an 1850s living history farm.

LBL is also close to Paducah, which offered easy computer use at the library, a quilt museum full of painstakingly stitched quilts that are marvelous works of art, a floodwall next to the Ohio River full of murals depicting the history and life of the community, a downtown historic district with helpful markers, and more that I didn’t see. In 1937, 90% of Paducah was covered with flood waters, but there’s no sign of the damage today. Perhaps there’s hope for New Orleans after all. Another historic markers explained who the original Duke of Paducah was. It was humorist Irwin S. Cobb (1876-1944), but the moniker was also used later by hillbilly comedian "Whitey" Ford (1901-1986) who appeared on the Grand Old Opry and other radio shows and live performances. His tag line was "I’m goin’ back to the wagon, boys, these shoes are killin’ me!"

Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historic Site

So where do you think Abraham Lincoln was born? No, not in Illinois, as I thought before noticing "Abraham Lincoln Birthplace Nat’l Historic Site" on a Kentucky map near Hodgenville. Look for Louisville, then a little southeast to Elizabethtown, then southeast again to Hodgenville. Abe was born three miles south of there on February 12, 1809, but not in the first building you see, a neoclassical granite and marble structure with tall Greek columns and wide steps (56 of them, one for each year of Lincoln’s life) leading up to huge double front doors. He wasn’t even born in the log cabin inside that temple-like structure, but the log cabin inside is similar to the real thing, which was 16’ by 18’. Imagine a family living in that small space. A similar log cabin (also not the real thing) can be seen 13 miles north at Knob Creek. That site is the farm where the Lincoln family lived from 1811 to 1816. It looked like an idyllic place for a kid – woods, valleys, streams, and a one-room log schoolhouse two miles away.

I wandered slowly around both sites soaking in the significance, then drove south past barns with open doors and windows to allow the tobacco inside to dry.

Jefferson Davis, president of the Confederacy during the Civil War, is also a Kentucky native. I doubt that’s the reason Kentucky proclaimed neutrality during the War Between the States, but it didn’t work. Enough battles occurred then that there are sufficient commemorative sites and re-enactments to make History Channel and black powder gun enthusiasts happy.

Natchez Trace Parkway

A map that includes Tennessee, Alabama and Mississippi will show the Natchez Trace Parkway best. The Trace, a diagonal parkway running northeast from Natchez, MS to Nashville, TN, probably began as a series of native American hunting trails. By 1785 Ohio River Valley farmers searching for markets had begun floating their crops and products down the rivers to Natchez or New Orleans. Because they also sold their flatboats, they had to walk or ride back home and the Trace was the most direct route. The Parkway is 444 miles of tranquil driving at 50 mph tops, and no commercial vehicles are allowed. Ten years ago I drove along part of it south of Tupelo, MS and have wanted to explore more ever since. This time I entered the Parkway about Milepost 370 in southern Tennessee, stopped for lunch and a short hike, drove briefly through Alabama, and exited at Milepost 293 to camp near Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway. The largest Army Corps of Engineers project in the U.S., it tamed a bunch of rivers and added a system of navigable locks to shorten a transportation route, adding recreational opportunities in the process. I camped for $8 (my Golden Age rate), strolled along the shoreline, took a shower, and could have gone boating, fishing or done my laundry.

Other stops along the Trace include many Chickasaw Indian sites, prehistoric mounds, a Confederate cemetery and battlefield, and picnic tables and restrooms. At one of the latter, I met two bicyclists from Michigan and their support van driver. The trace is a popular official bikeway.

After scrutinizing my maps, I chose to exit the Trace at Tupelo for a more direct route west. Higher gas prices have definitely influenced my route choices since Labor Day when it topped $3 a gallon.

Dayton Aviation Heritage National Historic Park

I’ve left this till last as it stands alone as my only urban national park experience, although I experienced it between Cumberland Gap and the Natchez Trace. (Just don’t even try to figure out the chronology of this newsletter.) My interest in the Wright Brothers began in Santa Cruz when the local newspaper ran a serialized story about the boys and their aeroplane experiments. Although written for children, it interested me because I’m a history nut. I also admire inventors for their creative minds, problem-solving skills and tenacity, all of which Orville and Wilbur had. Their first business was a print shop, then a bicycle shop. They adapted bicycle technology to aeronautical design because they recognized the parallels between controlling a bicycle and an aircraft. A very knowledgeable guide at the Wright Brothers Aviation Center explained this all quite well as we viewed a reconstruction of the brothers’ first successful flying machine, the 1905 Wright Flyer III. Parts of the original machine were salvaged and the reconstruction was supervised by Orville prior to the park opening in 1950.

The Wright Brothers weren’t the only inventors in Dayton. By 1890, Dayton led the nation in patents per capita. Charles Kettering designed the first cash register powered by an electric motor in 1906 (and started NCR). He and other putterers, known as the Barn Gang, invented the self-starter to replace the crank on early motor vehicles. The various buildings at this site included a reproduction of the Barn Gang’s loft workshop, the Wright Brothers bicycle shop, plus a wonderful collection of early bicycles, automobiles, battery-powered golf carts and wheel chairs, trains and trolleys – all made in Dayton – plus a print shop, early gas station, and more.

Summary

After I wrote the last few pages, I found the July 2000 issue of MotorHome magazine at a thrift shop and it contained a glowing report of Land Between the Lakes. I would recommend visiting all of the national sites I’ve described, with the hope that you more seriously consider the down side to the Great Smoky Mountains before venturing too close and getting stuck in traffic.

I see I’m on page 7 now which is over my self-imposed limit of 6 pages (because I snail-mail this to some folks). My next couple of newsletters will cover places I visited inbetween the national parks etc. and since, as follows:

Kentucky, including Keeneland Racetrack, The Farm intentional community, Museum of Appalachia, and Knoxville
The Bob Evans Farm Festival, where I saw square-dancing tractors and a sausage museum
Why I skipped Nashville, the Amarillo Art Museum, and Albuquerque
Cottonlandia Museum in Mississippi
Texas, from Texarkana to Amarillo
New Mexico and Arizona again (four more national parks and monuments; two other historic sites)
Motel comparisons and recommendations
Getting to the heart of a small town

Joan's 6th newsletter covering about 2-1/2 eventful weeks in September

2005-10-10T22:49:00.000-07:00

Going to Chicago

The trip to Chicago with Meagan Finnegan finally came to fruition over Labor Day weekend. When I learned earlier this year that Cheryl & Greg's daughter had never visited Chicago even though she loves and appreciates art and architecture, I brought up the idea of this trip and it just grew. Between the two of us, Meagan and I planned a spectacular experience. Our first stop was a special exhibit on the Arts and Crafts Movement at the Milwaukee Art Museum, which emphasized the roots of the movement in England and various European countries, on up to the Roycrofters and early Frank Lloyd Wright in the U.S. We also had time for hurriedly viewing some of the permanent exhibits. I liked the "chair park," reproductions of classic antique and modern chairs that could be sat on. Examples: a circa 1650 three-legged chair, and a 1922 Frank Lloyd Wright three-legged chair (the peacock chair designed for the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo), the Berlin chair whose right angles and flat surfaces were inspired by Piet Mondrian's painting style, and of course an Eero Saarinen tulip chair. The new addition to the museum was in itself a gigantic work of art. The brochure says it's the first Santiago Calatrava-designed building completed in the U.S. and features a sunscreen (looks like giant bird's wings or ship sails) that can be raised or lowered to create a unique moving sculpture. Combine that with the backdrop for the museum - Lake Michigan - and it's an awesome sight. (see http://www.mam.org/)

The following day we toured the Frank Lloyd Wright home and studio in Oak Park. It was thrilling to walk where he had lived and worked, and imagining what it must have been like to be one of his kids growing up with such imaginative bedrooms and a huge playroom and early educational toys. One of his sons created Lincoln Logs. Oak Park has dozens of Wright and Prairie School houses, three of them designed while Wright was working for Louis Sullivan (1888-1893) and led to either his firing or quitting depending on who tells the story. Meagan and I saw most of those houses, and Unity Temple, a Unitarian church that Wright designed and occasionally attended and through which we could wander and photograph all we wanted after an introductory lecture by an extremely knowledgeable volunteer. Oh my aching feet - but at least Oak Park is a safe, shady suburb with suitable places to stop for food (pizza of course) and ice cream.

So many things went right during this big city adventure. Downtown Chicago is an easy drive due east of Oak Park. I found a safe place to park the van indoors ($18 a night butd well worth it). The downtown hostel was the cheapest place to stay even though it cost $34 a person. We were within walking distance of most everything on our list, and there was a free jazz festival in Grant Park a few blocks away. We only went to one museum, but it was the Art Institute of Chicago - no others were necessary as the whole Loop area is an outdoor museum to lovers of architecture and public art (such as giant sculptures by Alexander Calder and Frank Stella). If you're not familiar with the term The Loop, it comes from the El (elevated railway) making a huge loop in the downtown Chicago area.

Meagan toured the Art Institute on her own while I rested my feet and checked e-mail at the Harold Washington Library built in 1991 in "behemoth eclectic" style - gigantic gargoyles on the corners of the building. When we met for lunch, she had stars in her eyes from being so close to so many works of art she had only seen in books. I knew the feeling. It always takes me a while in front of the wall-sized "A Sunday on La Grande Jatte," the pointillism piece by Georges Seurat.

Other highlights of the Chicago tour were:
- a production at the Neo-Futarium Theatre by an ensemble troup who did 30 two-minute plays in random order - the audience shouted out the numbers. The price of admission was $7 plus the number on one die - we "shook" and I paid $12; Meagan got in for $10. (See www.neofuturists.org)
- walking around the Loop looking at a lot of famous tall buildings
- going into Marshall Fields to see what a good old-fashioned high class department store looked like and buying some of their famously over-priced Frango chocolates
- seeing the Buckingham Fountain operate at night all lit up
- Going to the top of the Sears Tower on our last day there, when we both could identify landmarks and where we'd been

Just two disappointments - the audience at the jazz festival talked incessently instead of listening, and the special exhibit at the Museum of Science & Industry was sold out when we got there. But those were small potatoes compared with all we did and enjoyed. If anyone wants to hire Meagan and I to be your Chicago tour guides, let me know! We have to go back anyway. We forgot to shop - I mean eat - at the Hard Rock Cafe.

Catherine's Chicago Trip Story

Catherine the Grape, my red wine-colored Honda Odyssey van, had a good time too. Before the trip, she got cleaned out so my camping gear etc. wasn't tempting to big city thieves. Then at a gas station outside Racine, Wisconsin, gas spilled on her due to a faulty shut-off valve in the pump caused by too many people topping off in a panic after Katrina caused greed and escalating gas prices. Because I complained about the spill, she got a free wash. I really came out ahead there - she hadn't consumed much gas (at $3.19 per gallon) and I had planned to wash her anyway. In Chicago, she stayed in an indoor carpark on the 6th floor - very secure. I was glad Meagan's grandmother told me she was a good driver. What a great recommendation! So I had help with the freeway driving, which was about 12 hours total. And even when we got off on the wrong exit in Milwaukee and got held up in slow traffic due to construction, merging lanes, an accident up ahead and emergency vehicles needing to squeeze through, Catherine (and I) performed admirably. It was the most intense, scary driving situation I've been in so far, but I stood the test and can do anything now. In fact, I was very calm for the next test, getting lost in downtown Chicago because the GPS lost satellite reception between the tall buildings. (They even call the downtown streets "canyons.") Meagan used the map, I used my memory and we both used intuition and got outta there - okay, we drove through a parking garage to do it, but we made it!

Iowa - A Tourist Destination

To get to my next scheduled event, a bluegrass festival in southern Missouri in 10 days, I had to drive through Iowa. I found even more appealing attractions on this, my second trip through Iowa. At the big red barn which is the Iowa visitor center just south of the Minnesota/Iowa state line, I got a state parks guide and ended up at Pilot Knob State Park that night. It cost $8 with full service bathrooms and showers. The rain showers came with a vengence the next morning and I said a hurried goodbye to Dean from Michigan, whom I'd met at the sign-in post. He asked where I'd been traveling and invited me over to his campsite, then did most of the talking. At least I got to see the inside of one of those little flat-top trailers that gets cranked up at night, and learned about the superiority of marine batteries.

On that rainy morning, I headed to the Forest City for the 9 a.m. indoor tour of the Winnebago - as in RVs and motorhomes - manufacturing facility. It was my karma to make it - remember that I missed a similar tour in Indiana a while back (newsletter #5) and opted for the Amish-Mennonite museum instead. Well, this was a lot different than making horse-drawn buggies. We walked around several huge buildings on catwalks, looking down at various things happening to those homes on wheels by both men and women factory workers. The Winnebago plant lifted the residents of Forest City and surrounding areas out of a real economic slump beginning in 1958. Five people pooled their resources to open a small plant to build travel trailers. They bounced back from disaster by fire, kept expanding, emphasized craftsmanship and quality control, and are a booming enterprise today, employing about 4,000 people. I can vouch for the popularity of motorhomes first hand - at all the midwest music festivals I've been to, RVs and motorhomes are the dominant vehicle. I've been one of a handful of tenters.

Since I had unfinished business in Mason City - two Frank Lloyd Wright buildings I hadn't seen (a bank and a hotel), I headed there after the Winnebago tour and by the time I pulled into the Mason City library parking lot, the sun greeted me from a clearing sky. At the library, the temporary password I was given to log onto a computer was oinker. Well, this was Iowa. After checking e-mail, I decided to give myself a walking tour using a tourist map I had. I began right across from the library parking lot where I saw a large, grey square building that had these words etched below the eaves: "110 cornets close behind." It turned out to be the back of Music Man Square and right next to Meredith Willson's boyhood home. Sorry, all you Music Man fans, but I was less interested in the Square (reproductions of the street scene in the play) and more interested in Prairie style architecture. I found plenty of the latter, homes built in 1908 or thereabouts, even two for sale for less than $250,000 - yes, really, you unbelieving California people! Mason City may soon be livable for Californians - in the community education schedule, I saw classes for yoga, Feng Shui, and California cuisine (learn how to make shrimp and leak stir fry!). They also offer classes to help assimulate to the community: Conversational Czech, Make a Patriotic Windsock, and Canoe the Iowa River. I also stopped at the art museum, and was surprised by two rooms full of delightful old Bil Baird puppets of nursery rhyme and childrens storybook characters, including the Wizard of Oz based on the L. Frank Baum book illustrations and not the movie. Baird (1904-1987) grew up in Mason City.

After that delightful day, I camped at at McIntosh Woods State Park because it was close ($8, sparkling clean restrooms and showers), then drove back to Pilot Knob - so called because a peak, or "knob" there, was a landmark for pioneers migrating westward. The rain the day before had prevented a walk around Dead Man's Lake, and I wanted to see what a real bog looked like. This one was a four acre floating sphagnum bog and it was difficult to differentiate between the bog itself and solid ground around it, so I prudently stayed on the mossy path and peered at the water, lily pads and ducks from between the trees and shrubs growing right up to the visible water's edge.

As I was driving along Hwy. 18 heading west toward Okoboji, I saw a farm supply place with a sign that read "Stop and see an amaizing new heating system." So I made a U-turn and stopped in. The new fuel is corn. At $1.50 a bushel in Iowa, it's a very economical alternative to propane. I have brochures for fireplace inserts, free standing stoves, furnaces and boilers that burn corn, wood pellets or switch grass pellets (huh?). Maybe I should forward this information to the White House. (See http://www.countryflame.com/ and http://www.woodmaster.com/)

John and Judy Haviland were my hosts again at West Okoboji. I did them a favor by finishing up, or taking with me, the leftover veggieburgers and fake bacon left in the freezer after my son Michael's visit a few weeks earlier, and they did me a favor by providing a bed & bath, washer & dryer, and computer access - plus good company. Judy took me to two local museums. The maritime museum had lots of motorboat, fishing and Arnold amusement park artifacts and history. The second museum was a rock and roll museum. Yes, in Iowa. Remember, Buddy Holly, Richie Valens and the Big Bopper crashed and died in Iowa in February 1959 after performing at Clear Lake. The many ballrooms and dance halls in Iowa provided venues for big bands and early rock and roll. The museum was small and had a lot of regional mementos, a display of "art guitars," and a hall of fame of Iowa performers. The art work on one of the guitars was done in corn kernels. Have you ever heard of Dee Jay and the Runaways' hit "Peter Rabbit," or the Chevelles, of the Traidmarx? Well, neither had I. See http://www.iowarocknroll.com/

A California Connection in Nebraska

Somewhere in the back of my mind I remembered that someone I had known in California moved to the Omaha, Nebraska area a few years ago. So I e-mailed a mutual acquaintance for contact information, and it turned out that Sam had been forwarding my newsletters to Steve. When I e-mailed Steve about a visit, he didn't hesitate to invite me for dinner with his family in Bellevue, NE on Sunday, his only day off. Amy fixed fresh sweet corn on the cob (my last this year), baked potatoes and salad enough to fill me up - not even room for dessert. I met the family rabbit, saw the trampoline-performing dog (well, Steve's daughter performed and the dog went along for the ride), and heard how Steve, a Santa Cruz area native, and Amy, a Nebraskan, got a great big house and an acre of land in a quiet, bucolic suburb of Omaha for about half what they sold their California home for. They made the move to be close to Amy's family, and I'd say they landed on their feet. So far it seems the only down side is that Steve is one of only six guys who belong to the local Democratic club. But as Roger Welch, a Nebraska folklorist, told Charles Kuralt in the early 1980s, Democrats had only recently been sighted in Nebraska. Hang in there, Steve! Which reminds me, in Conway, MO, I saw this painted on a building: Send Bush back to Texas riding in a Blunt-Bond push-powered manure spreader.

Folks, it's interludes such as the visit with Steve and his family, like spirits in a strange land, that keep me from feeling lonely on the road. Thanks to such modern inventions as e-mail and cell phones - when I am in a Sprint area at least - I can keep in touch with family and friends. I just have to remember waht time zone I'm in. So I can honestly say I haven't felt pangs of homesickness yet - even when I'm in states such as Missouri or Kentucky where I'm the one with the accent.

Two Macabre Museums in St. Joseph, MO

Even though I hadn't liked St. Joseph, MO in early July (newsletter #4), I decided to give it another try because I really wanted to see something about Jesse James. I had heard the song so often, about "the dirty little coward who shot Mister Howard has laid poor Jesse in his grave." So I set the GPS on the house museum address and finally saw the place where the dirty deed was done. If you don't know (shame on you), Jesse, his wife and two children were living in St. Joe in 1882 under the name of Thomas Howard. A $10,000 reward was posted - apparently dead or alive, because one of Jesse's own gang members shot him as he stood on a chair straightening a picture on the parlor wall. The bullet hole is really there (enlarged because souvenir hunters kept chipping away at it until curators covered it with plexiglas). In 1995, Jesse's remains were exhumed to run DNA tests to verify authenticity - apparently people kept seeing him around after the shooting. The results showed a 99.7% certainty that it was really Jesse. The museum includes a cast of his skull, showing the sawcut where the original autopsy had been performed, and a bright red foam plug where the bullet had entered his head below his right ear.

Well, after that grizzly but quite interesting display, I figured I could handle another rather unique museum in St. Joe - the Glore Psychiatric Museum. The advertising said "You might pay particular attention to the Fears, Phobias, and Anxieties Disorders Exhibit, the Stomach Contents Display, and the 17th to 19th Century Treatment Replicas Exhibit." Besides, the Psychiatric Museum was in the same building as the St. Joe history museum and the black history museum in case the treatment replicas got to be too much for me. Also, the only other attraction in St. Joe that interested me (until I found the Starbuck's and got a strong iced coffee fix) was the Sally Rand Museum. However, I had missed the one day a month that it was open. Apparently the viewing of Sally Rand's memorabilia was as brief as the viewing of her supposedly nude body behind the ostrich feather fans.

The psychiatric museum was a little bizzare - well, okay, some of the exhibits were very bizarre, especially the stomach contents display. A patient had swallowed 1,446 nails, pins, buttons, salt shaker tops, etc., and they were displayed like an arrowhead collection. She died not from swallowing all that stuff, but from the surgery done to remove (and count) them all.

I still had time to kill before a bluegrass festival that began on Thursday, so I went to the library at Lebanon to check my e-mail and found a Route 66 gift shop and a whole room full of National Geographics on display. Who doesn't have stacks of these venerable old magazines somewhere? Apparently not too many Lebanonese, but now they can do research in them in a special room that is probably climate-controlled as this is very humid country.

I had to pay $2 to use a computer here, but I got two hours of use - time enough to e-mail son Michael and get a reply. The next day I returned to visit the free Route 66 Museum, do research there on the National Road (see newsletter #5), and eat at the authentic reproduction Route 66 Cafe, all part of this library. Old Route 66 goes through Lebanon, and one of the original motels, the Munger-Moss, is on the outskirts of town. I have been on portions of old Route 66 in 6 of the 8 states this year, and I expect to add Arizona on my trip back home in November. I'm only missing Kansas, where it goes briefly through the southeast corner. Well, I've got to leave something to strive for next year.

Trying to Volunteer for Katrina

Volunteering somehow to help those affected by Hurricane Katrina kept percolating in the back of my mind, so I used John Haviland's computer in Okoboji, IA to research what I could do. What I found out boiled down to: Don't go there on your own. Link up with an agency. Send money. Well, I had more time than money, so I chose the Red Cross and Convoy of Hope and checked at the offices for both when I got to Springfield, MO on Sept. 14. Convoy of Hope only wanted teams of people, and the Red Cross required an orientation - to be held on Friday, Sept. 16 (when I had a commitment at a music festival) or on Nov. 17. Well, it wasn't very practical for me to hang around just for that so I gave up. Maybe something will come up in the future.

Starvy Creek

My commitment at the Starvy Creek Bluegrass Festival (Sept. 15-17) was to meet up with Lynn Morris and Marshall Wilborn of the Lynn Morris Band to help at their CD booth. I had known Lynn slightly in Denver through the Folklore Center, and she shopped occasionally at our antique/collectibles store. Two years ago she had a stroke after knee surgery and lost her ability to speak, and I hadn't heard how she was doing since. So when I saw her on the program for Starvy Creek, I Googled her and made contact offering to help, and they took me up on my offer. I am so glad I thought to do that as Lynn has a lot of trouble talking to people. Her singing voice is as strong and clear as ever, but she has to read the words to the songs, and also is relearning how to play guitar and banjo. We're talking about a Winfield, KS banjo contest winner and an IBMA female vocalist of the year no longer able to sing from memory songs she wrote. Marshall says she's come a long way, and Don Day, the festival promoter, wants to book them again in two years. This was her second gig since the stroke. Their CDs and instructional videos (learn how to play banjo and bass) can be ordered through http://www.lynnmorrisband.com/

I also met up with Jack and Verla Dean Garner at Starvy, and they invited me to dinner in their RV twice. They're the folks I visited in Independence, KS in late July; what we have in common is that their daughter Wanda was my boss at Cabrillo College the past 3-1/2 years, and that we all like bluegrass music (well, not Wanda). Bluegrass people are definitely the friendliest folks I've met.

The Plaza Motel

After the festival, I looked for a motel in nearby Marshfield, MO. Marshfield has two motels - a Holiday Inn Express and the Plaza Motel. The Holiday Inn cost $71 with tax, but it offered continental breakfast. The Plaza cost $33 with tax and without breakfast, not even coffee, "but the restaurant next door opens at 6 a.m." Needless to say, I was not their first customer, but I did eat there later and could have had biscuits & gravy & grits if I had the hankering for them.

The Plaza is worth writing about because of the decor. The sheets and pillowcases were striped - when have you ever seen anything but white sheets in a motel? The towels and washclothes were mix and match colors and that degree of softness made possible after many washings. The Plaza may not have provided coffee, but it had a 50 cent soda machine, a decent shower, a phone so I could catch up on phone calls, electricity to recharge my toothbrush, and a fly swatter on a nail by the door - just in case.

What's Next

I am finishing this on October 10 in Knoxville, TN on my way to the Great Smoky Mountains. Since I left the Plaza Motel, I've visited Mitch and Diana Jayne in Eminence, MO, spent nearly two weeks in Kentucky, went to a bluegrass music festival at Bill Monroe's old home place, and spent one day at another festival at the Museum of Appalachia in Tennessee. You'll get details in the next newsletter estimated to come out in early November from the home of friends in Tucson. I also hope to get the "music only" newsletter done there, after seeing one last festival in Rio Grande, Ohio October 14-16.

Joan’s 5th newsletter – August 7-31, 2005

2005-08-31T20:49:00.000-07:00

When I traced my travels the past 3-1/3 weeks on the map, the route turned out to be not circuitous but banana-shaped. Starting in southern Minnesota, I went eastward as far as southwest Pennsylvania with all sorts of stops inbetween. I am now in Plymouth, MN (west of Minneapolis), about 80 miles from where I started in Pine Island, MN. Pat, whom I met at a crones meeting in Tucson, AZ in February, graciously invited me to stay with her a few days, so I have unlimited use of a computer with speedy Internet access and good company besides! Pat is another traveler and an inspiration to me.

When I went on the road August 10 after a week in Pine Island, I had only these stops in mind:

Hobo convention, Britt, Iowa, August 11

Willow Folk Festival, northern Illinois, August 12-14

Trader Joe’s, Indianapolis, Indiana (had to stock up on soy milk and carrot juice!)

New Beginnings Bluegrass Festival, Chillicothe, Ohio, August 16-21

Rock and Roll Museum & Hall of Fame, Cleveland, Ohio

I accomplished all of the above, and then some. Here are some of the unexpected places I visited and things I learned since my last newsletter which stopped on August 7.

Even a vegetarian can have a good time at the Spam Museum in Austin, MN. (www.hormel.com/ and scroll to the bottom to click on Spam Museum and Spam Gift.) Yes, they answer the ingredients question and show the Monty Python skit (http://home.triad.rr.com/spamchef/spamskit.html).

The Mall of America (south of St. Paul, MN) was a lot more interesting to this non-shopper because I went with an 11-year-old boy. That boy was Sam, the youngest son of Cheryl and Greg Finnegan – my Pine Island hosts. When I offered to take him anywhere he wanted, he chose the Underwater Adventures Aquarium at the Mall of America (http://www.sharky.tv/). Our first underwater adventure began on the 60-mile drive up there. We noticed a huge black cloud ahead of us, and I couldn’t drive fast enough to miss the rain. Vicious torrents pelted down for 20-30 minutes, fogging up the inside of the windshield and obscuring my vision quite effectively. I hadn’t yet mastered the defogger, but learned since that I should have turned on the heat. Heck, it was already so hot it felt like a steam bath! Anyway, the rain subsided, Sam kept the windshield clear with paper towels, and we got to the Mall. I can blame myself actually – I had washed the van that morning. The aquarium was pretty cool, if a bit pricy. It features a 300 foot-long curved tunnel, complete with a moving walkway, that simulates a scuba diving adventure – the fishies, sharks and turtles were on the other side of glass walls that surrounded us on both sides and above. Since we got armbands, we went through it again after dinner. Our visit ended with a ride on the seven-story ferris wheel (there’s an amusement park in the center of the mall) and yes, we got stopped at the very top while they unloaded passengers. We used this vantage point to take a good look inside the fake dinosaur exhibit and scope out where the Lego place was. Among other displays, the Lego Imagination Center has big (5 or 6 feet tall) Lego sculptures of Harry Potter, and many dinosaurs, some with flashing eyes. Oh, and the drive home was uneventful – no rain.

A few days later, I drove Sam to his grandmother’s house in Heron Lake, MN, where I met Marge Finnegan and one of Sam’s cousins. Marge, who raised five boys on a farm and had never met a vegetarian, served a delicious dinner that included black bean salad with fresh cilantro (the first time she met cilantro too) and fresh corn on the cob. Then she taught me how to play two-deck canasta and we whomped Sam and his cousin.

I could only be at the hobo convention for the opening campfire-lighting ceremony and open stage on Thursday evening, and unfortunately the rain really put a damper on things. It had been raining off and on for three days so the open stage was cancelled. That was what I really wanted to see, the songs, stories, and whatever the performers came up with. While there was great camaraderie in the box car and food tent at the hobo jungle, and several people started friendly conversations with me, I opted to get back on the road and look for drier digs. I wanted to be at Willow early the next afternoon.

I ended up in Charles City, Iowa at the Lamplighter Motel, $30 for a room with a full-sized refrigerator and morning coffee in the lobby. I looked through the phone book and lo and behold, I was within walking distance of one of Iowa’s nine known Frank Lloyd Wright buildings. The Alvin Miller house, 1946, is a single story home on the banks of the Red Cedar River and not easy to see due to the trees around it. But I saw enough to recognize that distinctive Wright Usonian look. If I were keeping count of Wright buildings this trip, I think this would be the fourth. (As of August 28, I was counting on my second hand, and after the upcoming Chicago trip, I’ll have to start counting on my toes.)

Friendly Folks Everywhere

Willow Folk Festival is a very special event that I had previously attended three times with long-time friend Jon Calhoun, since passed away. I hadn’t attended since 1995, but I located the people we used to camp with, they welcomed me warmly, and I had a great time. Details to follow in a special edition newsletter just about music festivals. However, this observation fits in here. Willow is a very rural area between Galena and Rockford, Illinois, and whenever I drove or walked on the country roads here, the drivers in oncoming vehicles always waved. It’s so obvious I was a stranger – I drive a Honda and not a Ford or Chevy, it’s a van and not a pickup truck or big American sedan, and my antenna ornament is an alien head from Roswell, NM. The wave also happened in rural areas of Kansas, Oklahoma, and Ohio. It’s just plain friendliness.

The next evidence of midwest friendliness was at the Trader Joe’s in Indianapolis. I was on my last liter of soy milk, and this was the first TJ’s on this trip close enough to my route. While loading up my cart, an employee asked if I was finding everything I needed and I told him yes, that it was Trader Joe’s that I needed, and explained that I was from Santa Cruz, California yadayadayada. We chatted a bit, and when I was checking out, the store manager came over and said “So you’re from Santa Cruz, huh? I grew up in the bay area ... ” and we had a pleasant conversation, but most importantly, he gave me a list of all Trader Joe’s locations. I paid $1.49 for the TJ brand organic soy milk with no added ingredients except soy and filtered water (it’s $1.19 or $1.29 in California) but it was still cheaper and better than the name brand equivalent.

Upon arriving at the New Beginnings Bluegrass Festival in Chillicothe, Ohio on Tuesday, August 16 in time for the volunteer meeting and pizza feed, I was met with even more friendliness. They did not hold it against me that I was from California – in fact, California became my nickname for the duration of the festival. First Pete Peters, who is retired and works at bluegrass festivals almost every weekend (Florida during the winter), guided me to a primo campsite. He also kept checking on me throughout the festival to see if I was enjoying myself. Sure I was – I got invited to hang out at other camps, and to go out to dinner with a group of folks three nights in a row. At our last supper, I was inducted into the Broken String Club and presented with a broken guitar string from the band The Rarely Herd. And oh the delicious homestyle food – two firsts were fried green tomatoes (twice!) and sweet iced tea. More details about the festival in the aforementioned festival newsletter. My last festival will probably be the Bob Evans Farm Festival in southeast Ohio. (Bob Evans has a better-than-Denny’s restaurant chain east of the Mississippi.) Besides music, the demonstrations will include tractor square dancers, a lumberjack show, horseshoe tournament, border collie herding, and much more for three days. I’ll be meeting some of the Broken String Club gang there.

More Wright Stuff

When Dale Attias learned where I was in Ohio, she e-mailed back to say I was close to Frank Lloyd Wright’s famous Fallingwater, and that “As someone who has studied design for years, I can say unequivocally that it is the most beautiful home I’ve ever seen. Period.” When someone – especially Dale – talks like that, I listen. I was about 4 hours from Fallingwater near Ohiopyle, Pennsylvania, so I went there directly after the Chillicothe festival. On my way to the campground in Ohiopyle State Park (name means white frothy water for the whitecaps in the river), I passed a sign for Kentuck Knob, another Wright home. I saw them both. They were spectacular. Fallingwater, built in the late ‘30s, is the house built over a waterfall. See http://www.wpconline.org/ and click on Visit Fallingwater. Kentuck Knob is smaller, mid-50s Usonian style built of native fieldstone. The current owners are British royalty with lots of money, and the grounds are liberally sprinkled with their sculpture collection, including Claes Oldenburg’s Apple Core and a section of the Berlin Wall complete with original graffiti. See www.kentuckknob.com, also www.galenfrysinger.com/kentuck_knob_grounds.htm for splendiferous photos of the grounds and outdoor art work.

My 7th Wright building this trip was the Johnson Wax headquarters in Racine, WI. Yes I knew it was Sunday and they only gave tours on Saturdays, but I just had to see it. After all, I had never been so close before (18 miles round trip) even though I lived in Wisconsin the first 21 years of my life. I expected to be able to peek in the windows at the famous lily-pad columns and Wright-designed furniture, but the place was surrounded by a high brick wall and steel gates. Only the razor wire was missing. I got a few glimpses through the gates, snapped a few pics, and left with great disappointment. If you’re curious, google Johnson Wax and Wright – several sites have both interior and exterior photos.

A History Lesson

Driving into southwestern Pennsylvania from Ohio, through 12 miles of West Virginia and past Wheeling, was a real eye-opener. I hadn’t expected mountains in Ohio, but they began there and continued all the way to the Laurel Mountains south of Pittsburgh which is where I stopped to camp so I’m sure there’s more! That narrow strip of West Virginia between Ohio and PA was weird – there must be a good story there. I saw signs about the National Road, old toll houses, old taverns, old battlefields, and very old buildings. I saw mile markers – actually replicas of the old cast iron mile markers for the National Road. After some research, I learned that the National Road was begun in 1811 at Cumberland, Maryland, and finished in the 1830s when they ran out of funds near Vandalia, Illinois. It was built for horse-drawn wagon and buggy travel to the first American West region, which was what is now Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan and Wisconsin. This part of the country is so old that George Washington slept here – at Fort Necessity in 1754, where he also participated in the French and Indian War. The statehood coins have been out for a while now – you got Pennsylvania a few years ago, right? PA became a state in 1787. Ohio achieved statehood in 1803 – Chillicothe was the first capital and has some really old buildings and brick streets and sidewalks. So here’s some historical perspective. In 1803, Lewis and Clark began their expedition to see what was even further west. California became a state in 1850, and Colorado in 1876. Before I travel east again, I’m going to get me a good American history book and something about the ice age too. I want explanations for the Ohio mountains and the Great Lakes. P.S. I spent one night in a farmhouse built in 1843 that’s on the National Historic Register. It cost $16 and I had a private room. It was a hostel in the Cuyahoga Valley National Park south of Cleveland.

On this trip I also learned Ohio has islands and Indiana has a lakeshore. I’ve been to both. The Ohio islands are in Lake Erie – a village on one is named Put-In-Bay but no one knows why. A national monument there commemorates a naval battle there in 1813, during the War of 1812, between U.S. ships commanded by Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, and British ships. Perry and his troops won, after which he sent this message to General William Henry Harrison: “We have met the enemy, and they are ours.” Oh, and Indiana has not only a lakeshore but also lakeshore dunes. The Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore on Lake Michigan is about 50 miles from downtown Chicago by train, and appears to be a popular weekend getaway place. The 84-space campground was full on Saturday night. I arrived on Friday and had to settle for a walk-in tent site, so quickly paid for two nights. Gave me a chance to read, write, and take some leisurely walks in the forest on the softest paths I’ve encountered because there’s sand below the grasses and leaves. I also climbed almost vertically up a dune named Mt. Baldy – that wasn’t leisurely but a darn good workout. Spectacular view from the top, though, of people lolling on the beach, swimming and boating in Lake Michigan, and hopefully staying far away from the nuclear power plant to the east.

Museums

The disappointing ones –

James Whitcomb Riley Museum, east of Indianapolis. Not much of an explanation of who he was or what he wrote, just copies of his books and some personal belongings. Riley (1849-1916) was known as The Hoosier Poet and wrote stuff like “When the Frost is on the Punkin,” “The Ole Swimmin’ Hole,” and “The Barefoot Boy.” There’s more about him on the Internet than in the museum.

Flatiron Building Museum, Brownsville, PA – their glossy brochure said it included a National Road Museum. It did not.

The really cool ones –

Merry-Go-Round Museum, Sandusky, Ohio. When I got to the center of town, I knew immediately which building this museum was in – the front was round! It had been the U.S. Post Office until it got outgrown. A docent gave a tour of the plentiful displays, and she was very enthusiastic and knowledgeable. A volunteer was in an open workshop painting a recently carved carousel horse that was to be auctioned off soon as a museum fund-raiser. And the tour ended with a ride on a merry-go-round. What’s not to love?

Rock and Roll Museum and Hall of Fame, Cleveland, Ohio. I spent 6 hours there, overloaded my brain with sights and sounds, and still didn’t see everything in depth. I liked the introductory film presentation so much I saw it twice. It began by asking the audience to imagine a time when there was no rock and roll music in America, then cut to a medley of bland ‘50s stuff like Que Sera, Hot Diggity (dog diggity boom what you do to me), Perry Como, Dean Martin – you get the idea. Then they show clips of performers singing blues and work songs, gospel, old-timey and bluegrass, Cajun, Texas swing, and so on. The segue to rock began with Elvis singing Mystery Train and Heartbreak Hotel, on through Buddy Holly, and ending with Chuck Berry singing Roll Over Beethoven (very appropriate!). It all simply emphasized to me why I am glad I came of age when this segue was taking place, and that I got so deeply involved in American roots music. We have a very, very rich musical heritage, and this museum displays a lot of it. I called son Michael after the Jimi Hendrix surround-sound experience just because I wanted to share what I was doing with someone I knew who would appreciate it. The visit was topped off by a special exhibit on The Who’s rock opera Tommy including a video of the 1970 performance at the Isle of Wight rock festival.

Religious Signs

Although the Menno-hof Amish-Mennonite Visitors Center in Shipshewana, IN is a museum, I’m including it in this category because it is about the history of Anabaptists – Amish, Mennonite and Hutterite peoples. Going there was a coin-toss for me – my other option was an RV/Motorhome museum in Elkhart, IN, but by mid-afternoon I knew I wouldn’t get there before it closed, so I stopped in Shipshewana. The subject interested me because, growing up in north-central Wisconsin, I often saw Amish families driving their horses and buggies. Also, my paternal grandfather’s family had been members of a related group, the Church of the Brethren (Dunkers). Well, I learned a lot in an hour and a half in the museum. The website is www.mennohof.org . If you think, as I did before visiting the museum, that these folks don’t use electricity – think again. It was a multi-media adventure, including a simulated tornado with wind blowing and the room shaking. Briefly, Hutterites practice communal living, Mennonites and Beachy Amish use modern conveniences (although they may use horses and buggies for economy – especially at today’s gas prices), and old order Amish are the strict non-electric folks. The Shipshewana, IN landscape is very flat, and everywhere I looked, I saw horses and buggies in parking lots and on the road (usually on the wide shoulder). They do all that they do, with the horses, clothes, and way of life, to show the world that they believe in their religion, which began around 1600 and includes pacifism.

More signs of religion on this trip –

In many small towns, the largest building is a huge church, sometimes built like a European cathedral. I couldn’t help wondering how it was paid for.
I heard Christian radio stations often, even commercials for Christian cruises.
Billboards with Bible verses, and Christian graffiti (Trust Jesus).
The group I ate dinner with at the Chillicothe, Ohio festival said grace before every meal.
Uncle Ray’s potato chip bags had uplifting stories and Bible verses on the back (www.unclerays.com) .

Things I would have missed if I’d taken the Ohio/Indiana Turnpike
In the book On the Road With Charles Kuralt, he writes: “Thanks to the Interstate Highway System, it is now possible to travel across the country from coast to coast without seeing anything.” In Blue Highways, William Least Heat Moon writes: “Life doesn’t happen along the interstates. It’s against the law.”

By traveling the “blue highways” from Cleveland to Sandusky, I accomplished the following:
Stopped at a laundromat and was engaged in conversation by the owner, a man who emigrated from Korea in 1967, liked classical music, played golf, and was very interested in my travels even though he couldn’t travel himself
Bought home-grown tomatoes from one of many stands by the side of the road
Drove through Ohio lakefront towns with big vacant brick industrial buildings (learned later this was steel mill and shipyard territory). Saw signs for social clubs for various ethnic groups such as Serbs and Slavs (learned later over 70 different nationality groups lived there).
Got Catherine the van’s oil changed by women (except for the guy in the pit). When I asked how it happened that mostly women worked there, the answer was “We just got hired on.”
Missed the billboards but saw these two signs:

Gorilla playing saxophone
with balloons
at your party

Convenience store sign: It’s a boy – 7 lbs 9 oz

People I would have liked to meet
The owner of the Duke of Oil in Hammond, Indiana. It’s an oil change business that was closed when I drove by.
The woman about 50-something driving a really big U-Haul truck with a dog in the passenger seat and towing a car with the bumper sticker “Dog is my co-pilot.”

Coming Attractions

September 2-5, visit Chicago with Meagan Finnegan
September 15-18, Starvy Creek Bluegrass Festival, Conway, MO
October 6-8, Roxboro, North Carolina, bluegrass festival
October 14-16, Bob Evans Farm Festival, Rio Grande, Ohio
Head back to California with many stops, to arrive back “home” perhaps mid-November

Joan's 4th newsletter: June 23-August 6, 2005

2005-08-08T11:41:00.000-07:00

This is being written in Pine Island, Minnesota while visiting long-time friend Cheryl Finnegan and her family. Cheryl and I met in Denver about 1979 when we were both involved in Denver Free University (sort of like continuing education today, but then it was more hippie/socialist/ freeform but extremely fun). It is blissfully cool today both inside and out, which is a true blessing after enduring temperatures in the mid to high 90s, and as high as 100, from July 4 through 23, and not much cooler after that – until now! You know the phrase "horses sweat, men perspire, ladies glow" – well, I did it all.

Since leaving my daughter Kelly's in San Jose on June 23, I've been in the following states for a few days or more each, in this order: Northern California (did you know there's a movement to separate northern and southern California into two separate states?), Oregon, Washington, Colorado, Oklahoma, Kansas, Iowa, Wisconsin and Minnesota. I've also touched down briefly in Idaho, Utah and northeastern New Mexico. The general look of the landscape was green, whether the terrain was the flat fields of corn and soybeans of Kansas and Iowa, the majestic mountain ranges of California, Washington or Colorado, or the ice age moraines of Wisconsin.
This trip has included 4 music festivals:

Kate Wolf Memorial Festival at Wavy Gravy's Black Oak Ranch near Laytonville, CA; July 23-26

High Mountain Hay Fever Bluegrass and Old-Timey Festival, Westcliffe, CO, July 7-10

Woody Guthrie Memorial Folk Festival, Okemah, OK (his home town), July 13-17

Dry Valley Bluegrass Festival, southwestern Missouri, July 21-23

Three more are coming up and I will do a separate newsletter about all of them because there's so much to share. Those not interested in music festivals can choose not to read it, but I know some of you will salivate over it. Just be patient – the final festival isn't until September 15-17!

The Semantics of Travel

First I'd like to get philosophical. In 1983, I took a college semantics course and learned one of the most valuable lessons of my life: "You can't step in the same river twice." I've thought about that often this year as I've traveled, talked with other travelers, and read other people's travelogues. Things are always changing, and we all see and feel and appreciate them differently. I've had a great time where others have not, and vice versa. I know I miss out on lots of celebrated "road food" dining experiences because I don't eat meat, and I probably miss some fascinating conversations with locals because I won't linger in a smoke-filled tavern. Camping in a van and a tent also puts me in a lower social caste than folks in the house-sized motorhomes – yes, really!

What I want to get across is this: every person's trip is different. You may not ever want to duplicate my travels. (One friend has already said "You had fun in Oklahoma? Really?!") I just hope you find some enjoyment reading these newsletters, and don't blame me if you go to, oh, Coffeyville, Kansas or Mason City, Iowa and wonder what the heck I found so interesting there.

Signs and Mottos

The following are too good not to share:

"We do not discuss politics, religion, or the Civil War." (saloon sign in the Tucumcari, NM city museum)

"Hold on to the door when opening it; the Oklahoma wind can be stronger than you are." (Clinton, OK library)

JOEBOB BAIL BONDS, Clinton, OK

Resistance is not futile - vote Democratic (billboard in Oklahoma)

The pledge of allegiance in a McDonald's in Oklahoma, with the words "under God" underlined.

"Coffee 50¢" – inside the Medford, Wisconsin library. Yes, they serve coffee!

Road signs in Utah along US 6, 191 and I-70 (Salt Lake City to Grand Junction, CO):

NEXT SERVICES 67 MILES

EAGLES ON HIGHWAY

DUST STORM SPEED LIMIT 30

Song lyrics heard at the Woody Guthrie festival:

"If the Christian nations were nations of Christians, we would have no more war." (Ronny Elliott's No More War, which Texans didn't like)

"There'll be two dates on your tombstone, and all your friends will read 'em,
but all that really matters is the little dash between them." (Life Down Here on Earth, Kevin Welch)

From Emily Kaitz's It's Tornado Time in Tulsa –
"Why make your plans to revolve around the weather,
when the weather can revolve around you."

Ingredients list for Snicker Bar Salad, County Market Deli, Medford, WI:

Cool Whip, cream cheese, caramel ice cream topping, Snickers candy bars, diced apples. (Yes, it said salad. I do not know what it tastes like, honest.)

Inside Price Tower, Bartlesville, OK (the only Frank Lloyd Wright skyscraper that was built):
Toward all
I raise high the perpendicular hand. I make the signal
To remain after me in sight forever
For all the haunts and homes of men.
* * * * * *
Where the city of the faithfullest friends stands
Where thrift is in its place but prudence is in its place
Where behavior is the finest of the fine arts
Where outside authority enters always after the precedence of inside authority
Where the city that has produced the greatest man stands
There the greatest city stands.
Walt Whitman, 1860

Price Comparisons

Regular unleaded gas: highest $2.65, Arcata, CA on June 27; lowest $1.99 in Iowa, late July. In Iowa and Wisconsin, they add 10 to 15% ethanol.

Laundromats: highest $2 to wash, 25 cents for 6 dryer minutes, Scotts Valley, CA June 22. lowest 75 cents to wash, free dry, Tucumcari, NM motel July 11 (and free at friends' houses thank you all very much!)

Restaurants: highest basic breakfast about $8, Leggett, CA (as low as $2.95 in the Midwest); cheapest restaurant lunch: grilled cheese sandwich and large order of fries, $2.95, 8th St. Saloon, Medford, WI.

Camping: at music festivals it has ranged from free to $15 a night (but the festival was free); highest $11 at an Iowa State Park (including hot showers); free at Elk City Park by a lake in Oklahoma. I found the latter on www.freecampgrounds.com and I'm the one who added the comment on the disgustingly filthy restrooms. Twice as a last resort I've boondocked among the huge RVs in WalMart parking lots in Oregon and Washington. The ambience sucks, but it's safe and their restrooms are open all night.

Gas station soda refills range from 75 cents to $1.25, and I'm up to the 44 ounce size now. It's too hot for coffee!

How to order iced coffee if no cold coffee is available: ask them to start with a double shot of espresso and add cold water and ice cubes.

Museums

So many cities and towns have history museums and art museums that I've become more selective about them. Here are some that have been highlights for me.

In Grand Junction, CO, on a very hot day, I climbed up 99 steps to the top of the outdoor viewing tower of the Museum of Western Colorado for the view and the breeze. There were great views of the city and surrounding plateaus, I located a gas station to buy a giant soda later, and there was enough of a breeze at that altitude to cool me off.

Bishop Castle on Hwy 165 in southern Colorado is a work in progress with spires and towers topped by a dragon's head, being erected by one man who writes "the castle is both monument and testament to the will of one man and like that man, it ain't finished yet. See it." Dusty, full of "stuff" including printed rants against governmental control, it is free but donations are suggested and there's a gift shop so visitors can contribute toward this man's dream for which he refuses to get building permits.

The National Route 66 and Old Town Museum Complex in Elk City, Oklahoma has the best Route 66 display I've seen so far, featuring motor vehicles, artifacts and audiotape narration for each of the eight states. The rest of the museum, which was outdoors in the blasted heat, included store window displays of many different types of businesses, a house museum open to tour, a barn with old carriages and farm machinery, and about a dozen windmills (outside of course!). Best of all was the soda fountain which was open for business! The other customers were four jolly Brits riding motorcycles on as much of the 2,448 miles of Route 66 as they could find, from its start in Chicago to the end in Santa Monica, CA.

The Will Rogers Museum in Claremore, OK is a cool, monumental building with lots of displays and video presentations and even an entire Hollywood movie. If you don't know who Will Rogers is – shame on you and look him up. I could fill pages with his amusing homespun quotes, often political, which he began to share with audiences inbetween rope tricks, but soon dropped the trick roping and just talked. He and Wiley Post died in an airplane crash in Alaska in August 1935 and even President Roosevelt mourned the loss.

The Dalton Defenders Museum in Coffeyville, Kansas has displays, artifacts and an hour-long documentary film about the infamous Dalton gang, who were lawmen turned train and bank robbers. Two of the Dalton brothers were killed attempting to hold up two banks in one day in Coffeyville, and the surviving brother served time and then wrote a book about it all, from his point of view of course. After seeing the scene of the crime (the bank's still there), and realizing I had driven past Shawnee, Oklahoma where Pretty Boy Floyd did some dastardly deeds, I de-cided to stop at the house in St. Joseph, MO where Jesse James was shot. But it was not to be – I arrived in St. Joe on a blisteringly hot Sunday evening, the motels looked sleezy, and I bagged the idea. Currently I am within easy driving distance of the Northfield, MN bank that the James gang robbed, and it's tempting me. But the St. Joe museum has the DNA evidence that the body in Jesse James' casket is really Jesse James. Hard choices when you're on the trail of outlaws.

When visiting friends in West Okoboji, Iowa, I was studying the map of Iowa and saw that I was near Britt. Doesn't ring a bell? The National Hobo Convention has been held there since 1900. At www.hobo.com, I learned about the hobo museum in Britt. A few days later, as I was sitting in the museum watching a documentary about depression-era hoboes, a woman came in and said to me "Hi, I'm Connecticut Shorty. Is that your van with the Woody Guthrie bumper sticker? He was a hobo, you know. See, his picture is over here." She was on her way to a newspaper interview and I wanted to watch the video, so we made a lunch date, where I met her sister New York Maggie. Their father, Connecticut Slim, had hoboed 34 years. Ten years ago, both Shorty and Maggie retired, sold their houses and belongings, bought an RV, and have been on the road ever since. I will probably see them next week at the 2005 Hobo Convention opening campfire ceremony at the Hobo Jungle down by the railroad tracks. I'll report on it in newsletter #5.

After that experience, most other museums could pale in comparison, except perhaps the National Motorcycle Museum in Anamosa, Iowa. (How do I find these places? For this one, I called friend Bill Wolmutt in Grand Junction, CO, who had lived in Anamosa, for some recommendations about the area.) The motorcycle museum has over 130 motorcycles, more different brands and models than I've ever seen in one place before. I was probably the only visitor without a tattoo. If I'd wanted to pay attention to the Harley-Davidson engine exhibit, I could now tell you about all the different types they made. But being the popular culture fan that I am, I was most impressed by Peter Fonda's Captain America bike from the movie Easy Rider, and a 1959 British Vincent. The later is significant to anyone who knows the Richard Thompson song (also sung by Del McCoury) about the dying young man who gives his "Vincent Black Lightening 1952" to a red-headed girl to ride. Vincents are rare. The bike in the song could be worth about $60,000 today, as some tattooed guys kindly and thoroughly explained to me.
On Thursday, August 4, at the History Center of Olmsted County (MN), instead of touring the exhibits, I helped paint the exterior of the schoolhouse. I guess that's true hands-on history. I did this gladly because my friend Cheryl, in whose house I sit right now, works at the museum.

Staying with Friends

I've been truly blessed by friends living in very convenient locations who've offered guest rooms or sofas, and scenic drives to get there.

David Kent (and wife Beatriz who was absent) live in Port Angeles, Washington. Driving there between the Hood River Canal and Olympic National Park, I passed numerous fireworks stands run by Native Americans with names such as "Ill Eagle." (Say it quickly.) David and I hiked a bit in the cool, mossy park, walked out on Ediz Spit to see the longest-lasting and latest sunset of this trip, saw two tall ships come into port and tie up, ate veggie fajitas and spinach enchiladas at Sergio's Hacienda Mexican Restaurant, and attended an afternoon music performance in a WWII balloon hangar outside Port Townsend. Being there also gave me an excuse to take a ferry to get to northern Seattle (see "My Wild Ride" coming up).

Bill Wolmutt and Freya Hite live in Grand Junction, CO, where I arrived on July 4. I'd visited them during my spring train trip at which time the theme was music and art. This time it was "starry, starry night." Bill, friend Steve, and I went out to a dark mesa-top (saw a herd of wild elk on the way), set up Bill's telescope, lazed back in our lawn chairs and viewed the Milky Way, some planets and constellations through the telescope and binoculars, and swapped stories and philosophies for hours. I am sworn to secrecy about the train stories.

Verla Dean and Jack Garner were my hosts in Independence, Kansas. So what do I have in common with the retired farmer parents of my Cabrillo College boss? Bluegrass music! They had lots of information for me about festivals and bands. Verla Dean made a very successful stab at cooking for a vegetarian, including fried okra coated with cornmeal – yes, it was yummy! Verla Dean and I went to three museums that we both enjoyed and she might never have seen otherwise, and I saw videos of square-dancing tractors and a tractor pull that I might never have seen otherwise. We were strangers when we met, but not for long.

At Lake Okoboji, Iowa, I visited my husband's friend since kindergarten, John Haviland, and his wife Judy. As background for some of you, my husband Mike McCarthy died in 1976, and he had been a folksinger and silversmith during our marriage. John and other childhood and high school friends have kept up their friendships and hi-jinks and get together regularly – many of them are retired by now. John has planned an upcoming gathering of five of my husband's friends to get together with our son Michael to share tales both tall and true about growing up and hanging out with his dad. John and I had lost contact about 20 years ago, so we had a lot of catching up to do. He says "Please buy 3M Post-Its and not cheap imitations, and help contribute to my profit-sharing checks."

My visit to Iowa coincided with the annual bike ride across Iowa, 10,000 riders on all manner of bikes including tandems and recumbents. We arrived at the eastern border and the Mississippi River the same day, but I turned north, stopped at the effigy mounds on the Iowa side, and then headed into Wisconsin. Every crossing of the Mississippi River is special to me, it's so wide and cool-looking, especially when bordered by abundant green forests.

My Wild Ride

Before leaving the San Jose/Santa Cruz area, I advertised on craigslist.org for a rider from Washington to Utah or Colorado to share driving and gas. A woman from Seattle responded. I knew we had to drive straight through, but hadn't realized what that would be like until the journey began. We drove about 3 hours each and then swapped places, stopping only for gas, food and restrooms when necessary. I amazed myself by driving through southern Idaho until about 2 A.M. aided by truckstop coffee. Some day I'd like to go back and see southern Idaho.
We left Seattle about 1:30 P.M. on July 3, and arrived at her parents' house south of Salt Lake City about 7:00 A.M. on July 4. I still had about 5 hours to go to Grand Junction, Colorado. I drove a bit, stopped at a shady rest stop and napped a bit, drove some more, fueled myself up on cold soda, and got to Grand Junction late in the afternoon. I crashed early and wasn't even bothered by the fireworks show being held at the stadium 5 blocks away. Miraculously, I was refreshed the next day, but I don't plan any more marathon driving for the rest of this trip.

The ALT Sandwich Story

There was absolutely nothing on the menu for a vegetarian at Mary Jo's Hobo House restaurant in Britt, IA, but I was with the two women hoboes and we were already deep in conversation. I saw a BLT (bacon, lettuce & tomato) sandwich on the menu and asked the waitress if they could substitute sliced avocado for the bacon. She asked, but they didn't have an avocado. I offered to supply it myself, and got one from the van. The waitress took the avocado into the kitchen, and returned with the avocado, a plate and a sharp knife. "The cook doesn't know what to do with it." So I cut up the avocado myself, and had a great ALT on toast.

What's Next

August 11, Britt, IA hobo convention opening ceremony

August 12-14, Willow, Illinois folk festival

August 16-21, New Beginnings Bluegrass Festival, Chillicothe, Ohio (Ralph Stanley, The Rarely Herd, James King, Melvin Goins, and many more – and it's free to me as a volunteer)

August ??, Cleveland, Ohio, the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum

August 29-31, stay with Pat who I met at a Crones meeting in Tucson in February; she lives outside Minneapolis; we'll probably share road trip stories for hours and hours

September 2-5, Chicago with Meagan Finnegan (friend Cheryl's 19-year-old daughter) to view art and architecture and go to the Hard Rock Café

September 15-17, Starvy Creek Bluegrass Festival, Conway, MO (Lost Highway, Karl Shiflett, Bill Grant and Delia Bell – I'll have to say hi to Bill from the curator of the Elk City, OK museum, Lynn Morris Band, Jessie McReynolds & the Virginia Valley Boys, J. D. Crowe & The New South, Blueridge, and more). I'll also meet up with Verla Dean and Jack Garner here.

Unplanned until the first week of November, when I might meet sister Marsha and her husband in Phoenix

… and then drive back to Santa Cruz/San Jose, CA at the rate of no more than 4 hours a day. No more wild rides!

Joan McCarthy’s 3rd newsletter: The Train Trip April 19-May 17, pre- and post- events

2005-06-20T20:50:00.000-07:00

Another long one, I’m afraid. Hope you’re not getting bored. Let me know if you no longer want to receive these, or if you have suggestions on making them more useful to you.

All aboard, toot toot and clackety clack – here we go on the California Zephyr and more. The focus of this trip was visiting friends along the way, and my mother in north central Wisconsin. Driving would have cost about $500 for gas alone, plus another oil change and camping or motels, not to mention the effect that driving 4,460 miles would have had on my body and mind. So I opted for train travel. It took less time, the Explore America fare was only $315, I could enjoy the scenery safely (although I couldn’t stop to hike it), and it was a great opportunity to read or listen to books on tape. My route was as follows:

Leg 1: San Jose to Sacramento via the Capitol Corridor, changed to the Zephyr and a splendid scenic route over the Sierras with historical and scenic information supplied by a volunteer from the railroad museum in Sacramento, slept through Nevada and Utah, enjoyed the Colorado Rockies – especially Glenwood Canyon – the next day, and arrived at Denver’s grand Union Station the second evening for a week’s stay.

Leg 2: Left Denver in the evening, arrived in Chicago the next afternoon and spent the night at the Hostelling International Chicago Hostel for free (got comped in because I volunteered at the Santa Cruz Hostel for a year). The next afternoon, boarded the Empire Builder through Wisconsin to Red Wing, Minnesota, to spend the weekend with Cheryl and Greg Finnegan and their three teenagers in Pine Island, MN. (An overnight stay in Chicago is necessary because the Zephyr is scheduled to arrive at 3:20pm, and the Empire Builder is scheduled to leave at 2:15pm. If we scheduled classes that way at Cabrillo College, we’d be shot by irate students.)

Leg 3: After a weekend in Pine Island, a week in Medford with my mother, and another weekend in Pine Island, I reversed the process between Red Wing, MN and Chicago, arriving in the Windy City about 3:40pm, scheduled to miss the Zephyr by an hour so another overnight stay was necessary.

Leg 3-1/2: Left Chicago at 1:50pm on the Zephyr for an overnight trip to Glenwood Springs, CO. After 2 days and a night there, Freya provided ground transportation to Grand Junction, CO a few hours west, and I spent 4 days there with Freya and Bill.

Leg 4: Left Grand Junction, CO about 4 pm for an overnight trip to Sacramento (same scenery, different direction), transferred to the Capitol Corridor and arrived in San Jose the next evening. Pigeons come into both the Sacramento and San Jose waiting rooms looking for snacks.

The skinny on train travel

The coach seats are far superior to airplanes, much more leg room and seat adjustments. Electrical outlets are provided next to some seats! On all four overnight trips, no one was in the seat next to me so I used them both for sleeping, aided by two pillows (one provided by Amtrak, one small pillow I brought with me) and a lightweight blanket. Next time I’ll take eyeshades because the little ceiling lights left on to help nightwalkers, although dim, were annoying. I learned to walk while lurching to the train’s movement, and frequently spent time in the observation car which features large windows, evening movies, access to the snack bar, and abandoned newspapers and magazines. Some trains ran on schedule, some did not – it depended on whether we had to wait to let a freight train through, as they have priority.

Although food was available in the dining car and snack bar, it was overpriced and not that good (or so I heard as I never tried any). FYI, dining car meals are included in the price of a sleeper, and sleeper compartments are the same price for one or for two passengers – an additional $125 to $200+ for one night of prone sleep. Not worth it for me, but may be for some. If you can get a sleeper car after you board the train rather than in advance, they’re cheaper (but not always available).

Although there purportedly is a limit on carry-ons, many passengers including me carried on a lot of stuff. I had a fannypack, backpack, small duffle, and soft-sided cooler, plus a suitcase on rollers that I either checked in advance or stowed in the cargo area of my assigned car. Seats were not assigned on this trip, although they were on a trip from San Jose to Salem, OR last summer. Also on that trip there were few vacant seats.

The bathrooms were small but the amenities were nice: almond-scented liquid soap, paper towels, Kleenex, electrical outlets, and paper cups (although I brought my own bottled water). A larger “dressing room” had a bench seat, and a stool by one of the sinks so I could brush my teeth sitting down. Considering the constant movement of the train, that stool was necessary.

It appeared the other passengers generally had more time than money, or were traveling one-way and train fare was cheaper than air fare. They included senior citizens, African-Americans and Amish (frequently families), and some real train buffs with maps and guides about the route. My favorite scenic areas were:

Crossing or traveling alongside the Mississippi River

Going over the Continental Divide and through the Rocky Mountains in Colorado, snugly sheltered from the cold and snow outside

The High Sierras in California, passing through many tunnels and show sheds and seeing the cold, rushing water in the rivers from above

Trip theme: art and music

The theme evolved as I began to notice many of the people I visited were artists, art collectors, and/or musicians, and many activities were to see art or hear music. In Denver, they included:
Marti Foxhoven, collector and photographer, who took me to some art galleries on So. Santa Fe including CHAC (Chicano Humanities and Arts Council), the Denver Art Museum, and art exhibits at the Denver Public Library and the Butterfly Pavilion. We also met prolific local artist Bob Ragland while strolling along the Confluence Park greenway and he gave us buttons that read “Real artists don’t starve.” (Meaning they promote themselves constantly.)

Bonnie and Pat McCune, collectors (also Bonnie’s a writer) – Bonnie and I went to hear my Denver history mentor Tom Noel (“Dr. Colorado”) present a slide show and talk at the Denver Press Club about Burnham Hoyt who designed the Red Rocks amphitheatre

Joyce Whitcomb, artist (former housemate 1979-1984 in Denver), who organized a great potluck brunch with a select group of her interesting and artistic friends Chris and Karen Mohr, collectors, musicians, writers, and I’d include photographers as they had fantastic digital photos of their recent trip to the Galapagos Islands

Paul Kashmann, writer and editor of the Washington Park Profile, a monthly newspaper that was my venue for articles I wrote about history, interesting people, money-saving consumer tips, and humor; he also collects 1960’s rock music posters and is a Dylan and Grateful Dead fan
McCarthy relatives Tim (woodworker/craftsman who’s built two boats since retirement, also musician: guitar and banjo), Georgia (musician: piano), Sarah (musician: vocals and piano), Marty and wife Ruth and son Calder (I’m in the dark about their artistic and musical abilities but know that Marty is a science teacher and a fly fishing guide). Tim and I went to a song circle at the Denver Folklore Center led by owner Harry Tuft, a legend among us old folkies.

Dick Barnes, former director of the Washington Park Community Center and my boss for a few years, music major, peace and political activist, now retired and active in the Colorado Humanist Assn.; also Bettina Basanow, another former Wash Park Community Center staff person, peace and political activist, retired cooperative book store manager

The architect for the “new” (1995) Denver Public Library was Michael Graves (yes, the architect who also designs housewares for Target) and is pretty modern and awesome. See http://www.michaelgraves.com/ and click around through projects and libraries. The “old” Denver Art Museum building (Gio Ponti architect, 1971) looks like a tall concrete fortress. The new addition, which will double the exhibit space, was designed by Daniel Libeskind who is also designing the New York Twin Towers buildings and memorial, and looks like a giant silver origami “object.” See http://www.denverartmuseum.org/, expansion link. Denver’s light rail system is very functional, fast, and convenient. Marti and I rode on it to Englewood to meet Chris Mohr, and viewed the outdoor art on the former Cinderella City shopping center site (now new public and retail buildings and green space).

In Minnesota, Cheryl, husband Greg and daughter Meagan all had paintings exhibited at Crossings, a gallery, retail store and pottery co-op in a former Carnegie Library. We saw an author talk by Lois Lowry, author of “The Giver,” the book chosen for Rochester’s “one book” community reading program (see www.loc.gov/loc/cfbook/one-book.html). I also watched Cheryl make history come alive for a birthday girl and her guests at the Olmsted County History Center where she works, went to two soccer games (my first ever; Sam played and Meagan coached), saw H2G2 the second day it was in theatres (translation: The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy), walked around Red Wing, MN admiring lovely old historic homes and stopped in the Red Wing Shoes museum, and played two long games of Super Scrabble.

In less than two days in Chicago, I managed to fit in 1-1/2 hours at the Chicago Art Institute viewing my favorite impressionists and modern artists. They have at least 10 Cezannes! I also happened upon a photo gallery, an exhibit of architectural models at the Chicago Archicenter, a Jewish history museum, Alexander Calder’s Flamingo outdoor art piece, a large Frank Stella “junk” sculpture I hadn’t seen before, the Buckingham fountain, and a free performance by the Chicago Civic Symphony Orchestra in historic Orchestra Hall on Michigan Avenue. The performance and the hall were splendid – as I sat soaking it all in, I kept thinking how amazing and special it was that I found out about it at the last minute. Both the guest director and feature violinist were from Latvia, and I heard foreign languages being spoken in the audience. Also, the hall had special meaning because long-time family friend Jon Calhoun (deceased 1996) frequently spoke proudly about singing in Handel’s Messiah there every December.

Fortunately, Glenwood Springs, CO came after Chicago because by then my feet were complaining, and the long soak at Glenwood Hot Springs was very welcome. The owner of the hostel there had a huge record collection from the ‘60s through the ‘80s, and I saw a singer-songwriter perform at a music store. My Grand Junction hosts were Freya Hite (artist who had a show at a frame gallery and had sold quite a few paintings) and Bill Wolmutt (“Paisley Bill” to his fellow musicians and fans) who is retired and now makes stringed instruments of his own design and jams with friends. Since Martin’s backpacker guitar has such poor sound, he’s working on improved backpacking instruments, as he demonstrated on the mandolin-type instrument he played as we rested during a hike in Arches National Park outside of Moab, Utah. We also heard a super guitarist play and sing (and loop) at a coffeehouse in an alley in downtown Grand Junction, and went to a housewarming party where Bill and other musicians treated us to an afternoon of acoustic music. Lots of street art in Grand Junction, too, from smooth and shiny metal sculptures to wildly painted bicycles and non-functional parking meters.

Restaurant reviews

Food was always a challenge since I don’t eat meat. Denver had the most flavorful choices: Mexican, Thai, Indian, and a great Santa Cruz-style vegetarian restaurant named Watercourse. I “stocked up” in Denver, knowing I’d be headed to less veggie-friendly areas. However, in Chicago I happened upon a health food store and restaurant that had a veggie burger and soup special, and a deli with a yummy tomato basil soup. Cheryl knew about a Chinese buffet in Rochester that worked quite well (especially the desserts), and I discovered that the restaurant chain Baker’s Square has several delicious vegetarian options. Alas, in most of the restaurants in my home town of Medford, Wisconsin, I had to search the menus thoroughly and eventually settle on an omelet or baked potato and salad. On my third day there, mother and her neighbor Cindy and I lunched at Uncommon Ground coffeehouse and I hit the jackpot with a cheese and veggie sandwich on bread with sundried tomatoes baked in, and the next day, I had a vegetarian pizza with sauerkraut as one of the toppings. (Yes, it was good!) Bill and Freya took me to a good Mexican restaurant and a Nepalese buffet in Grand Junction. I found some of my favorite Indian foods there (including dessert!). Coffeehouses in Medford, Grand Junction and Rochester all had some free trade coffee choices – I was impressed because the way Santa Cruz Coffee Roasting Co. boasts about it, I was sure they had an exclusive on free trade coffee (which means paying fair prices to coffee producers in poor countries, as opposed to the mainstream industry practice of bargaining for the lowest price which means producers often sold at a loss).

Weather report

I experienced everything from rain in Denver near the end of April (had to borrow an umbrella) snow flurries in southern Minnesota on May 2 (had to borrow a jacket and gloves), to shorts weather in Glenwood Springs, CO and Moab, UT mid-May (brought my own shorts). Because it was spring, lilacs bloomed profusely everywhere I went – not the puny scentfree California bushes, but big, beautiful aromatic blooms, sometimes found with delicate violets nearby.

Yes, Denver has changed

I lived in Denver from 1969 to 1984, mostly in the Washington Park neighborhood but also near Cheesman Park for 3 years, and attended colleges near downtown Denver so became quite familiar with its buildings and ambience. I also was doorperson at the Oxford Hotel music room in the late ‘70s, in a bleak part of town now revitalized into “LoDo” (lower downtown) with expensive loft housing and “in” restaurants and clubs. New loft-style housing is being built, including one project named after Jack Kerouac. He visited Neal Cassady in Denver during the beat generation days. Neal was quite a character (he was Dean Moriarty in “On The Road,” and in real life he drove the Furthur bus for Ken Kesey and the Merry Pranksters). I’m not sure if they would be irate, or just highly amused, about the new Jack Kerouac Lofts highrise, since Dean mostly lived in downtown Denver flophouses and hobo camps near the train tracks with his alcoholic father.

The nice department stores that were on the 16th Street Mall in downtown Denver have been razed, or now house discount clothing stores. Tee-shirt and souvenir shops predominate, but if you look above the awnings, the beautiful old buildings are still there, many with architecturally significant Chicago-style windows and art deco features. Hybrid-electric shuttle buses are frequent, free and full. The center of the traffic-free (except for the shuttles) street is filled with vendors of food and cheap souvenirs. It’s a bustling, hustling scene that many former and current Denver residents have told me they don’t like. Nor do they like much of the redevelopment, especially the sports arenas near lower downtown and the commerce and housing that are filling in once vacant green acres between Denver and Boulder, or Denver and Golden, or Denver and anywhere nearby. At least the neighborhoods I knew don’t seem to have changed much – except the higher cost of housing due to usual inflation and demand. And East Colfax seemed the same, except for a few more Greek restaurants.

Pre-trip event: the funeral

On April 8, Kelly and Michael received calls from McCarthy relatives – their grandmother (my mother-in-law) had passed away. The wake in Sioux City, Iowa and funeral across the Missouri River in Ponca, Nebraska were being scheduled for April 15 and 16. I was able to reschedule my train trip at no additional cost, and we quickly found air tickets for me, Kelly, Michael and wife Dana. The news was not that sad, given that grandma Marty’s brain had succumbed to Alzheimer’s years ago and her death at age 92 was peaceful. She had four sons and one daughter, who all moved far away from their home town, married and had children. I had married the oldest son Mike who passed away in 1976. Twenty of us showed up – just two wives, two of her grandchildren and her two great-grandchildren could not. (I think my math is correct.) The occasion gave us an opportunity to talk about grandma Marty as we remembered her: peppy, actively involved with Boy Scouts as a den mother, the Symphony Guild, a horse club (she rode), and always interested in her children’s and grandchildren’s lives and welfare. It was California-born Dana’s first trip to the Midwest, and she saw gray skies, flat terrain, last year’s cornfield stubble, inhaled Sioux City packing plant odors, learned to skip rocks on the Missouri River at Ponca Park, met a lot of in-laws for the first time, and really liked Omaha’s Old Market area, a renovated section of the city full of cool restaurants, bars, shops, art galleries, street performers, and cops on horses (see www.omahaoldmarket.com/). Those of us who remembered the conservative days of the early 60’s (I lived there in ’63-64) were amazed. Our last night there, all but Mary and Ed were able to hang out and relax in a hotel conference room passing the guitars for an unrehearsed family jam. Plans are in the making for a reunion the summer of 2006 and “not waiting for the next oldest to die before we get together again.”

Post-trip events: Strawberry Music Festival and Jackie’s visit

On Wednesday, May 25, I drove leisurely to Camp Mather (just west of Hetch-Hetchy dam in Yosemite National Park) for my 14th Strawberry Music Festival (see http://www.strawberrymusic.com/, and buy tickets for 2006 as soon as possible because they sell out early!). Camped at “Camp Get There From Here” as usual, caught up with everyone’s news as much as possible, worked a couple of morning shifts so I didn’t miss many performances, saw a lot of good music, and for the first time didn’t have to drive back on Monday with all the Memorial Day traffic. I stayed at a nearby national forest campground, fended off mosquitoes and finished reading “Plainsong” by Kent Haruf. After two attempts to go to Yosemite to see impressively full waterfalls (the line of cars was so long I couldn’t even see the entrance station), I gave up and had a cool, pleasant lunch at closer and less crowded Rainbow Falls. It was cool because I forgot to zip up my soft-sided cooler and dumped cold water on myself when I stood up. Since it was a hot day, it was also pleasant.

On June 7, Jackie Weller arrived at San Francisco Airport after a red-eye flight from Denver. She (see www.thelivinggoddess.com/) and her business partner (see inspirationalpathways.com/) had a booth at the Harmony Festival in Santa Rosa and she came early so we could catch up and hang out. We did a little sight-seeing along the California coast and in Sonoma wine country, and spent a very relaxing and soothing 20 hours (too short!) at Harbin Hot Springs (see http://www.harbin.org/), a rustic retreat center with natural hot springs pools, cooking facilities, affordable dormitory lodging, walking paths, and mellow new-age activities. For example, I saw a German movie “In July,” actually more punk than new age but still enjoyable, especially viewed from an overstuffed chair while munching on an organic vegan chocolate chip cookie. We had to leave our shoes at the door.

Speaking of feet –

The foot pain, which began after a lot of walking on cement in Chicago, was still plaguing me when I returned to San Jose on May 17. A visit to a doctor and X-rays confirmed my suspicions – it was plantar fasciitis, which for some people can be chronic. The plantar fascia is a dense band of tissue at the bottom of the foot, and “itis” means inflammation – get it? The first doctor recommended ice packs, stretching exercises, ibuprofen, good supportive running shoes, and over-the-counter heel inserts. The latter helped immediately, the rest helped more gradually. The podiatrist re-recommended the same stuff, plus taped my foot into a certain position for 24 hours and injected cortisone into the most painful foot. I followed all advice, and experience only a little morning pain in one foot now. Since I can’t take salsa lessons now, I’m going …

On the road again

This will be mostly a music festival trip, with the itinerary so far as follows:

June 23-26, Kate Wolf memorial festival, north of Laytonville, CA

June 30-July 3, visit David Kent and wife Beatriz in Port Angeles, WA

July 7-10, High Mountain Hay Fever festival, Westcliffe, CO (Norman and Nancy Blake, Mike Seeger, Dry Branch Fire Squad, Country Gentlemen and more)

July 13-17, Woody Guthrie memorial festival, Okemah, OK, (Burns Sisters, Tracy Grammer, Kevin Welch, Sarah Lee Guthrie & Johnny Irion, Jimmy LaFave and more)

Visit John Haviland at Lake Okoboji, Iowa (long-time long-lost family friend) sometime before
August 11-14, Willow Folk Festival, near Stockton, IL (no famous people but a small treasure I attended several times with Jon Calhoun and his son when Jon was alive)

Followed by a visit to Chicago with Meagan Finnegan, artist and architectural draftsperson-in-training

August 26-27, maybe the Northland Bluegrass Festival, Stevens Point, WI, followed by a visit with my mother in Medford, WI

September 15-17, Starvy Creek Bluegrass Festival, Conway, MO (Lynn Morris Band, Lost Highway, Bill Grant and Delia Bell, J. D. Crowe, Jessie McReynolds and more)

And I think I’ll wing the rest. Scheduling too much isn’t always a good thing – I might miss some good meandering opportunities.

Joan’s second newsletter – Feb. 21-March 29

2005-05-07T12:20:00.000-07:00

This is quite late because events intervened between March 29 and today (May 7). I am in Rochester, MN midway through a train trip, which will be the subject of newsletter #3. In the meantime, here’s the second part of my first trip, 36 very full days. I traveled in Arizona, New Mexico, West Texas, southern California desert areas, and a teeny bit in Nevada only by necessity (to get cheaper gas and find lodging for a Death Valley trip because the park was crowded with people looking at wildflowers).

Snowflakes fell on the van 4 times (Truth or Consequences, NM; Alpine, TX; Prescott Valley, AZ and Walker Pass, CA) so I left for lower altitudes ASAP.

Experienced some, but not a lot, of rain, and enough sunshine to provide a very nice early tan. My journal is more than 40 pages, so here’s a 7-page summary – 4+ pages of trip highlights and 3 pages of hints for travelers, so you can read only what’s of interest to you.

WILDFLOWERS GALORE

About those wildflowers – they were out there everywhere! I started seeing and learning about them in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, AZ in late January, saw Texas bluebonnets and blooming yucca in Big Bend National Park in mid-February, and they just got more varied and prolific as it got closer to the end of March and closer to home. An Arizona highway between Phoenix and Quartzsite was especially colorful, and then they were everyplace I went in California: Joshua Tree National Park, Mojave National Preserve, Death Valley, Red Rock Canyon State Park, Desert Tortoise Preserve, Carrizo Plain National Monument, Pinnacles National Monument, and even driving along the highways (although it’s dangerous to stop and look closely at them). Death Valley got national publicity and became overrun with flower-seekers and stupid drivers. Joshua Tree had more variety of flowers and the visitor center has an excellent brochure identifying the most common. My favorites were pink desert five spots, desert candles with their inflated stems, delicate purple thistle sage, everything in the lupine family, beavertail cactus blooms (a showy brilliant fuschia), and Joshua trees.

MY SPACE ODYSSEY

That’s a play on words because I’m traveling in a Honda Odyssey, remember?!

I was fortunate enough to know two astronomers both working for organizations headquartered at the University of Arizona in Tucson. David Lien accompanied me on the tour of the Steward Mirror Lab where they were finalizing polishing the second 8.4 meter mirror for the LBT (large binocular telescope) to be installed before the end of this year at Mount Graham north of Tucson. It was absolutely thrilling to see the mirror from the observation area, and 8.4 is not a misprint. They had also begun the painstaking process of preparing a mold for their next mirror project. When I learned from Glenn Morrison that he would be observing at Kitt Peak while I was in Tucson, I offered to give him a ride up the mountain and got the insiders tour of several telescopes up there, including the 4 meter Mayall and the solar telescope. At McDonald Observatory in the Davis Mountains in Texas, I saw the world's third largest optical telescope, the Hobby-Eberly which has a hexagonal mirror array made from 91 segments with an effective aperture of 9.2 meters. (The world’s largest, the Keck telescope on Mauna Kea in Hawaii, is 10 meters, and Glenn will be moving to Hawaii this summer so the lucky guy will get to observe there more easily.) Seeing the VLA (Very Large Array) radio telescopes out on the plains of San Agustin west of Soccoro, NM was pretty awesome. The VLA consists of 27 radio telescopes in a Y shape; each arm is 13 miles long. Darn, I couldn’t take a picture of the whole thing.

Okay, that’s enough science for now. I balanced this with a trip to Roswell, NM to see the UFO Museum and Research Center. Even though the street light globes near the museum are shaped like alien heads, the rest of the town seemed fairly sane. The Chamber of Commerce says the median home price is $81,000 and median household income is $49,000 (same median income as Phoenix, AZ where new homes sell for just over $200,000). Oops, didn’t mean to segue into economics. Let’s switch to literature.

COWBOY POETRY IS NOT AN OXYMORON

I spent one day at a cowboy poetry gathering in Sierra Vista, AZ in February and two days and nights at another gathering in Alpine, TX a few weeks later. I had to keep my mouth shut about being a vegetarian – these folks are real working ranchers and cowboys and probably skilled with a lariat.

Their poetry and music was often amusing, sometimes emotional, kept the audience’s attention, and it rhymed! Cowboys spend their working lives outdoors, so they see a lot of nature and its beauty and changes. Maybe that’s where the poetry comes from. Here’s an excerpt from the song "Nightrider’s Lament" that explains it for me:

Tell me why do you ride for the money
And why do you rope for short pay
You ain't gettin' nowhere and you’re losin' your share Boy, you must've gone crazy out there.
Ah, but you've never seen the Northern Lights, You've never seen a hawk on the wing You never spent spring on the Great Divide, And you've never heard ole' camp cookie sing.

SPECIAL ANIMAL SIGHTINGS

Driving down to Big Bend National Park in Texas, I spied a roadrunner crossing the road – they really are speedy critters! Another one dashed about the campground in the park occasionally. I smelled, but did not see, javalina there too – small pig-like (but they’re not pigs) peccaries that nibble on vegetation at night. Three deer were tippy-toeing around the lawn at the lodge in Chisos Basin in Big Bend. I saw not one, not two, but three desert tortoises in California, and only one was in the Desert Tortoise Preserve north of California City. Experienced thousands of kamikaze butterflies (painted ladies migrating north from Mexico, many of them ending up as hood ornaments). Also saw many birds and lizards that were too fast for me to identify, one bald eagle in a tree near Casa Malpais outside Springerville, AZ, and lots of road kill (primarily rabbits and skunks).

While the white-winged dove is a beautiful bird, its call can be very annoying after a few days
These sightings got me thinking about how people are encroaching on their territories. This was especially evident at the Desert Tortoise Preserve, which was right next to an off-highway vehicle area. The story I heard (but have not been able to verify) is that the OHV area was there first and the preserve was established because tortoises were getting killed. I think OHV riders should become endangered species so desert tortoises, and the desert itself, will no longer be endangered.

TALE OF TWO CITIES

My favorite sizeable city was Las Cruces, NM, which I visited because of a Saturday night concert by the duo Still on the Hill. I’d seen them perform 10 years ago and then never heard about them again (probably because they’re based in Fayetteville, Arkansas). So, when I saw an advertisement for this concert, I put it on my itinerary. Small audience (about 35) at a Unitarian Universalist church, and I got to meet most of them because I helped the duo sell their CDs. The next day I attended the church service which consisted of more Still on the Hill, a 15-minute play reading, and later a roundtable discussion about secular humanism. Next I went to a rag rug exhibit and weaving demonstration at the New Mexico Farm and Ranch Heritage Museum, followed by a movie at a historic theatre in the old town of Mesilla nearby.

My Las Cruces experience culminated in a Sunday night stay in the largest and poshest lodging situation so far in the trip. The Plaza Suites advertised rooms for $32.99, and mine really was a two-room suite with tons of amenities. As a comparison, other Las Cruces motel prices were either $54 and up or in the $20 range but real dumps. But let’s disregard those fleabag motels. Overall, I got a very favorable picture of Las Cruces because of the area of town I was in, near the university and historic Mesilla, and the friendly people I met at the UU church and elsewhere. But on Monday as I drove east I saw mile after mile of new housing and franchise businesses that looked like any other city affected by a growth spurt. Too bad, but it won’t keep me from visiting again.

My favorite small city is Arcosanti, population about 65, a sustainable living eco-city designed by 80-year-old Italian architect Paolo Soleri in the high desert about 70 miles north of Phoenix. It is a work in progress, interns continue to build it and also make ceramic and bronze wind bells which are their major source of funds. Excellent bakery and cafeteria too – I had vegan mushroom barley soup and delicious bread pudding for $3.50. The website is arcosanti.org

WHAT I'VE LEARNED

I enjoy camping very much, especially early morning tea outdoors listening to birdsongs and watching the day begin. I became an early riser because the sunsets were between 6 and 7 pm, after which it was easiest to just listen to books on tape until my eyes wouldn’t stay open any more. The cot in the van was very comfortable and the new thick dark green and plaid flannel sleeping bag was always warm enough. When I set up the big tent, I used it for changing clothes, preparing and eating meals, and shelter from cold, wind and rain (and it stood up to it all). If you’re interested in the tent – brand name is Sportz, it’s an SUV tent that attaches to the back of an SUV, van or minivan or stands alone, is 7’ high, the floor is 8-1/2’ by 8-1/2’, it cost $200 from an on-line dealer and was well worth it. Oh, and very easy to put up after reading the directions (see my first newsletter!). Other campers were always friendly, and since it was winter were mostly retired or on disability (both groups get free admission and half-price camping at national parks, monuments & recreation areas). Spring break in late March brought out the educators and students. I met about 6-8 women between the ages of 50ish and 79 traveling solo. I don’t think I ever got in a conversation with any folks from the huge homes on wheels – they mostly stay inside. Maybe even campers are class-conscious.

I prefer small towns and lesser used state highways. I knew this before driving on I-10 through El Paso for about an hour (road construction, not rush hour). Avoiding the fifth largest city in the U.S. (Phoenix) was difficult because I wanted to visit Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West in nearby Scottsdale, so I did that on a Sunday after camping the previous night at a KOA at Apache Junction just east of there. Neither the KOA nor the long drive to Taliesin West were optimal experiences, but the destination was worth it. The Wrights’ living quarters are now included in one of the tours and that was very special.

LEARNING TO MOSEY

In late February, I still hadn’t learned to slow down. This became apparent when I was walking briskly to the counter of a gas station convenience store in Alpine, TX and almost bumped into the customer in front of me, a cowboy who knew how to mosey. Learning to mosey became a goal at that point. I also need to avoid planning too far in advance – it actually limited me; I missed some things I learned about along the way because I had a timeline to meet. In the future, I’ll try to allow more time between "appointments" (events or meeting people). That would allow me to meander and discover along the way. For example, I hadn’t planned to go to Poston, AZ, but since I was close, I did. It is the site of a Japanese internment camp during WWII, population 17,867 by August 1942 (6 months after FDR signed Executive Order 9066). It is now very barren, just a monument with an explanation of what took place there, and a water fountain with a list of the Japanese people who paid for it.

POEM FROM POSTON

This poem is on that monument. I really began to understand it while writing it down because my mind lingered on each word, and it was very powerful, so I suggest reading it slowly.

We Cannot Always Fail
By Lloyd Fujimoto

When tears are wrung in worlds of strife; When lives are wrecked by wanton greed; A weary throng, bent, disillusioned, Turned to dull black barracks in the dust as home:
Then they faced the world anew,
And here, they started life afresh,
We are the outcast, making life –
With dreams ahead – and dreams behind;
Confronting trials with small relief;
But we’ve gained much with more to find – And now we live, and make a life, The best we ever can.
We have left – some homes behind,
Crushed – broken in the wind that passed But we have others there – ahead.
We come to trials and ruts in life;
We tackle them;
We often fail. But on we go
For well we know
By faith,
We cannot always fail.

HOW TRAVEL BECOMES ADDICTIVE

The last book I read on the road was "Down Under" by Bill Bryson (2000). He is traveling through Australia and meets Mike and Val who run the telegraph museum and café in a remote area on the western coast:

"They were novice grey nomads – retires (often these days early retirees) who sell up, buy a motorhome of some description and spend their lives on the open road, stopping from time to time to earn a little money, but never tied to anywhere and essentially ever on the move. Six months earlier this would have seemed to me the dreariest punishment imaginable – endlessly driving across a landscape that is mostly hot and dry and empty. But now I understand completely. … There is always something just down the road … you never know what it’s going to be but it is nearly always pretty good.

(He flips through a guidebook on Australia and reads about a range of hills called the Bungle Bungles.) "I had a sudden powerful impulse to go there.

When would I be this close again? Besides, it would be a chance to drive into the Pilbara and visit little Marble Bar … see the landscape where Stan Awramik found and lost his fossilized stromotolites. From there it was but a hop along the Victoria Highway to Darwin. The wet season would be over soon, so I could go to Kakadu National Park … why, I could do this forever."

If you’re not planning a trip, feel free to stop reading as the rest of this is PRACTICAL TRIP TIPS Here are the stats for the 27 nights I camped, which may give you some ideas for your own trip:

Cheapest: 6 were free, Three Rivers Petroglyph Site, BLM-run, NM, cost $1

Costliest: $22 (Apache Junction, AZ, KOA and my least favorite – too many people in a flat, urban-feeling area – but it was the cheapest Phoenix-area
accommodation)

Longest in same place: 4 nights at Joshua Tree National Park in CA (pay showers available at a hippie store in the town of Joshua Tree), 3 nights at Big Bend National Park in Texas (pay showers available at an in-park store) Two included hot springs: Faywood Hot Springs in NM and Tecopa Hot Springs in CA south of Death Valley, both highly recommended Fewest amenities: Quartzsite, AZ BLM land, and east side of Red Rock Canyon State Park, CA. Both free, but bring your own everything including portapotty.

Noisiest: Dumont Dunes, CA – dune buggies at 3 a.m. (That’s when I learned it was for off-road vehicles – well, it was dark when I arrived.) At Afton Canyon east of Barstow, I heard off-road vehicles before I paid my fee and skeedaddled right out of there – after a short hike first.
Quietest: Datil Well BLM campground, NM – I was the only camper. Maybe I should have left when I saw the instructions in the bathroom about what to do in case of a bear attack, but I figured they were still hibernating so I stayed (I had already paid my $2.50), although I did not do any hiking the next day.

Smallest: Walker Pass BLM campground, CA – two sites for drive-in camping and 8 for Pacific Crest Trail hikers. It’s where the Joshua trees meet the pines.

Most interesting small places: Cochise Stronghold, AZ – two easily accessible interpretative trails, one about Cochise (legendary Apache), the other about the trees and plants. Longer hikes are possible, also technical climbing – met a father and son from New York who came to do just that.

Also Three Rivers Petroglyph Site, NM, with more than 20,000 petroglyphs.
Spent 3 nights in hostels, at Riverbend Hostel in Truth or Consequences, NM which included free hot tub use (outdoor natural hot springs); and in Beatty, NV. When I asked why there was a sink in my private $20 room, the manager replied: "This used to be a brothel." Met friendly travelers at both places and plan to return to Riverbend. I recommend the Beatty hostel for anyone going to Death Valley, but the town has no grocery store and the restaurants are not smoke-free.

Motels were only necessary 6 times, when it was rainy, late, no camping or hostel available, or I needed to shower, recharge my electric toothbrush and re-freeze the icepacks for the cooler. Five of ‘em had small refrigerators and microwaves. Always ask to see the room before paying your money. Not all surprises are pleasant! (Ants, bare light bulbs, saggy mattresses,
etc.)

Speaking of showers – 11 of the 19 campgrounds had showers, and only one was coin-operated. I got used to brushing my teeth and washing my face outside or in a public restroom. Only once did I go to a rec center just to shower (in Barstow, cost $3 and was worth every penny). Here’s an actual conversation I had on Sunday March 20 as I came out of the shower room at the Joshua Tree hippie store. A young guy was sitting on the bench waiting to use a shower.

He: Must have felt really good.
Me: Sure did. How long you been in Joshua Tree? (meaning the park not the
town)
He: I flew in from Maine on Tuesday.
Me: Climbin’?
He: Yeah. I’m at the peel stage of burn and peel right now.
Me: That’s right, you don’t have sun in Maine.
He: Not until June.

I went to a laundromat about once a week, and usually got into conversations with other customers who were often fellow travelers. The laundromat in Quartzsite, AZ is huge and plays country western CDs for the customers; it also had pay showers available and a pizza stand out front.

Finding palatable food while traveling in less-populated areas was a problem. Heck, it was usually a problem in populated areas because I don’t eat meat. Therefore, when I ate in a restaurant it was usually breakfast.

Most big chain gas station convenience stores have a large assortment of beverage machines. I enjoyed trying out different flavors of capucchino, and they’re cheaper in your own travel mug (Mine says Historic Route 66).

I always had plenty of non-perishable food with me, and stopped at supermarkets for perishables such as fruit, salad greens and veggies, bread, cheese, and juice. I ate a lot of peanut butter sandwiches, sardines or cheese on crackers, huge salads, sometimes canned soup (when I could wash the pan easily), instant oatmeal or other cereal and soy milk for breakfast, or bagels and cream cheese. Here’s how to toast a bagel over a propane stove: Cut bagel in half, shake off all crumbs, insert sharp knife in side of bagel, hold one side over the flame briefly, turn and repeat on other side, turn again and repeat until just before it starts to burn. I began every day with a leisurely cup of tea (usually chai), and tried to stop for teatime around 4 p.m. or hot chocolate later in the evening. I’m glad I took along a Brita pitcher as purified water vending machines weren’t always handy. And remember, everything tastes better eaten outdoors while enjoying the scenery.

COMMUNICATION AND BANKING

Even small town libraries have computers for public use for free. Don’t go right after schools let out, and expect an occasional wait. Some chambers of commerce or visitor centers have computers for tourist use, also New Mexico welcome centers on I-10. Forget wi-fi and Internet cafes – they’re in cities and it’s bring-your-own-laptop. Hotmail and Yahoo e-mail can be accessed from any computer. Before you leave, learn how to check credit cards and bank account balances online so you can keep abreast of your finances and either pay online, by phone (there may be a fee), or set up automatic electronic fund transfers at least 3 months before the trip. I avoided paying ATM fees at gas pumps and "foreign" ATMs by using my ATM card only at supermarkets. That’s where I got cash too, from $20 to $100. I used credit cards a lot and avoided carrying much cash. Speaking of supermarkets – you can apply for a club card on the spot. I now belong to four of ‘em and hope I’m covered for a while.

If you’re dependent on a cell phone, look at the map of your provider’s service area before leaving home. You can’t use them everywhere. (I had to drive out of a park and closer to an interstate to get service.)

Gas costs less in every state outside of California. While traveling in Arizona in mid-March, I was paying around $2 a gallon for 86 regular unleaded. Then I re-entered California at Blythe where it was $2.55 near the freeway exits and $2.33 further away. I asked the guy changing the van’s oil where to get cheaper gas, and he said "Go 5 miles east into Arizona." So I did, and paid $2.08 at a very busy Pilot truck stop.

Warning: if you’re driving on I-15 to Las Vegas, always gas up in Barstow to avoid paying too much in Baker, whose economy must be based on the 5 or 6 gas stations and the Mad Greek Restaurant. Gas was 45 cents more per gallon in Baker than in Barstow, and the Union 76 restroom was the worst I’d been in the entire trip.

On a pleasanter note, the California Zephyr train trip which began on April 19 has been comfortable, pleasant, scenic, and clean. You’ll read about that next.

Joan's first newsletter Covering January 16 through February 13, 2005

2005-02-13T22:12:00.000-08:00

What I’m grateful for:

Clean restrooms everywhere. One, in a Circle K gas station in Willcox, AZ, even had an arrangement of artificial flowers (well, maybe they were air fresheners).

Stash chai tea bags

Cappuccino machines in gas stations

Public libraries that offer free Internet access

Cash back with no fee when I use ATM/debit cards in supermarkets

PBS radio stations

Full moons while camping

Cheap motels with in-room refrigerators (and sometimes also a microwave)

My battery-powered tape player, used to listen to books-on-tape after dark – which begins around 7ish

My propane-powered Mr. Heater; which heats up my gigantic tent quickly

That gigantic 8-1/2’ x 8-1/2’ x 7’ high tent

My van, Catherine the Grape, who seems to be enjoying the trip as much as I am. She only got mad at me once – after driving about 40 miles on a dirt road, she disabled the radio/CD player, but it began working again the next day. Catherine is a concord grape-colored 1998 Honda Odyssey, suggested by friend Peter Anning because it gets darn good miles-per-gallon for a minivan, the two rear rows of seats can be removed or folded down for more room (and I did both), and it’s a Honda (well made and reliable). The interior did shrink between purchase date (Dec 13) and when I loaded it up for the trip, but I can still see out the windows and sleep comfortably inside on a 6’+ cot when I’m not at a hostel, motel, or friend’s home.

Some of the places I’ve slept:

Pacific Grove, Jan 16, home of Russ & Nancy Walker (he was my boss at the astronomy company where I worked 1997-2001)

Avila Beach, CA, Jan 17, camped at Avila Hot Springs and soaked in the natural sulfur hot springs twice

Nipomo, CA, Jan 18-19, Bill’s Home Hostel; hiked on Nipomo Dunes and participated in the anti-Bush inauguration day demonstration at Santa Maria with Bill and the one other hostel guest, a retired postal worker from Ireland. Trip’s most unusual shower was at the hostel: standing in half a wine cask with solar-heated water streaming from a shower-height hose nossle. The used water was siphoned off to water the garden.

Barstow, CA area Jan 21-23, camped at Rainbow Basin and Calico campgrounds, and one night at Route 66 Motel. It probably dated back to the ‘30s or ‘40s; slightly decrepit but I had to do it. Slept in a round bed and the Indian owner had an interesting collection of renovated old cars.
Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Arizona, Jan 27-29, camping. Would have stayed longer but I needed a shower!

Tucson, AZ – at the home of friends Merlin and Lee Jan. 31 through ???

Silver City, New Mexico, Feb 9 – the three of us took a trip to hike at Chiracahua National Monument and see Silver City; where we stayed at the Palace Hotel in an 1882 building. Recommended; we had a two room suite and expanded continental breakfast for just $62.

Best experiences so far:

Hiking for an hour or so along the Pacific Crest Trail (found the trail where it crossed CA Hwy 68 between Tehachapi and Mojave, right by the 700 windmills)

Calico Early Man Archaeological Site near Barstow – because I was the only visitor, I got a personal tour into the normally locked dig site by the site caretaker who had worked on the original dig with renowned archaeologist-paleontologist Dr. Louis S. B. Leakey in the ‘60s. Stone-age tools dated to 200,000 +/- 20,000 years ago were first found in 1942 (but no human remains found yet). I saw two tools in situ, one a stone anvil. Excavation continues to be done one weekend a month by volunteers.

Mojave Desert Hole in the Wall area, CA – the desert was green, and the hole-pitted rocky landscape was way cool. I met a retired technical college instructor and his wife from Minneapolis, who were intrigued by my solo trip and said they were driving the Alaska Highway next year. Hmmm – food for thought.

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, AZ – 5-star scenic, many visitor center programs conducted by volunteers or interns, longest hike so far (6 miles round trip to Lost Cabin Mine). Only place organ pipe cactus grow (well, some further north in Ajo), also saw many saguaro cactus and early-blooming desert flowers.

The opening of the exhibit "Coexistence: The Art of Living Together" at the University of Arizona in Tucson, which began with an intertribal group of pow wow drummers and singers; blessing by an elder from the Tohono O’odham Nation; music by R. Carlos Nakai Mary Redhouse; Peter Yarrow; and a mariachi band.

Cowboy Poetry Gathering in Sierra Vista, AZ. It was magical to hear poetry read and songs sung by folks who live the real cowboy life. Even more magical to follow it with a presentation a week later in Tucson of interviews with women who also lead that life, living and working on a ranch, titled "We Killed Our Own Snakes."

Chiracahua National Monument, AZ, hiked down, down, down to Echo Canyon among outer-space rock formations (wind and water eroded spires and balanced rocks).

Attending the movie "Frida," the first film about Frida Kahlo made in 1984 in Mexico, followed by a panel discussion that included a woman who visited Frida regularly during her final illness and had even seen her and Diego Rivera participate in a march for freedom.

The Tent Story –

Near sundown on January 21, in an isolated and windy campground at Rainbow Basin outside of Barstow, I decided to set up the tent for the first time. It’s a Sportz SUV tent, 8-1/2’ x 8-1/2’ and 7 feet high that can be attached to the back of a van or set up "stand alone." It was too dark to read the instructions, so I figured the latter would be easier. I got the tent out of its bag, laid it on the ground, put the four tent poles together, and then the comedy scene began. I got the poles into the sleeves on the top of the tent, then discovered the ends went into some thingy on top that was hiding in a plastic bag. By this time I was standing on a stepstool with a flashlight in my teeth, attempting to keep the tent upright while the wind had other ideas. I finally gave up and chose to sleep inside the van (which is, after all, very comfortable). And then something strange began to occur. I kept seeing car headlights on the road I had come in on, but they were passing the campground and disappearing. The next morning I discovered why. I had gone to the group equestrian campground (which explained why it had corrals), but they were heading toward the larger official campground. After noticing the boisterous scout groups camping there, however, I was glad I hadn’t set up there.

The next time I set up the tent, in Organ Pipe, I did it in daylight and it was truly simple. It’s a great shelter from wind and sun, a place to change clothes standing up, and a confined area in which to use Mr. Heater, which is powered by a small propane canister and heats up the surrounding area quickly. Highly recommended!

Tucson –
For a big city of 900,000 more or less, it’s not bad. I’ve found lots going on here of interest, such as the Mexican movie festival, many museums, history and architecture, live music in small venues at reasonable prices, proximity to mountains and desert scenery, and suitable places to eat. There’s even a few Trader Joe’s! It seems to take a lot of driving to get anywhere, but it’s an easy place to get around.

Land, lots of land –

But it’s the wide open spaces that I love the most. I’ve managed to avoid interstates in favor of "blue highways" such as state highways. I set the cruise control at 58 and let everyone pass me – yes, even where the speed limit is 75 mph! Cactus of various types have lined the roads ever since the Barstow area. I meander for reasons that make sense only to me. For example, after learning at a presentation at Organ Pipe National Monument that the Casa Grande Ruins are the nation’s first national monument, I went to see them even though they created a northerly blip in my route, and it was well worth it. If it would have fit more easily into my plans, I would have stayed an extra day around Ajo, AZ just to play Scrabble at Marcela’s Bakery on a Monday night. I went to Lake Havasu City just to see the London Bridge. Yes, the area around it is a tourist trap, but to someone with a love for history and architecture, seeing the bridge was a real thrill. (So was the ice cream cone on that sunny day.) Oh, and I spotted a Starbuck’s at Lake Havasu City, the first since leaving Santa Cruz County.

What’s next?

Between now and the second newsletter (estimated publication date early April), I’ll be visiting the University of Arizona Mirror Lab (made for telescopes, not funhouses) and Kitt Peak Observatory on a mountain west of Tucson, both with astronomers I used to work with in the late 1990’s; checking out Roswell, NM and Marfa, Texas for the aliens’ side of the story; camping and hiking in a few more national parks or monuments; attending another cowboy poetry gathering in Alpine, Texas; soaking in a few natural hot springs; and a bunch of other stuff both planned and spontaneous.